Mirabeau’s focus on regenerative viticulture vindicated

Maison Mirabeau’s latest progress in eco-friendly winemaking is its regenerative estate, which recently won Gold at a db competition.

Having left the London rat race for Provence in 2009, it is unsurprising that Jeany and Stephen Cronk, founders of Maison Mirabeau, have a great care for the environment. The village of Cotignac, where they based themselves is a picturesque Provençal town, surrounded by greenery and dominated by a dramatic cliff above. Certainly, it is closer to nature than Zone 6 on the London Underground.

In their winemaking at their nearby estate, the married couple have therefore prioritised environmentally sound initiatives. The winery is certified organic and High Environmental Value (HVE) Level 3 and the company is B Corp certified and has switched to 100% renewable energy since 2022. Meanwhile, the range has a significant number of vegan certified cuvées in its Maison Mirabeau label, where Mirabeau has also moved to lighter bottles and recycled paper stock as part of its commitment to net zero.

However, Maison Mirabeau is now taking even bolder action, moving beyond organic to regenerative viticulture as its priority. At their own beautiful estate, Domaine Mirabeau, the couple are practising both forms of viticulture and are also aiming to convert a number of their grower partners to regenerative farming. As a Gold medal at the Global Organic and Vegan Wine Masters demonstrates, the hard work is paying off.

The estate is situated in the Plaine des Maures nature reserve, a particularly biodiverse pocket of this part of France. Seeing the need to protect its natural abundance, the team had already begun organic conversion in 2019, with certification coming in 2022. As they worked the land, however, they realised more could be done.

“We knew the estate needed its soils re-building, given they are challenging by nature with low organic matter and problems with water run-off,” explains Stephen Cronk. That diagnosis, and a chance connection with Mimi Casteel, who farms regeneratively in Oregon, led them to see regenerative viticulture as a solution.

The results have been impressive. “We’re now 4 years down the line in our regenerative journey and have achieved a huge amount,” enthuses Cronk. “The soils of the vineyard have totally changed in appearance: they are darker and more structured, full of worms and small insects. Our latest lab test results have shown we’ve increased soil biological activity by a staggering 10 times since 2021, which shows we’re truly regenerating life underground as well as storing more carbon. We are also in the process of obtaining certification for regenerative farming.”

Among the changes have been a commitment to cover crops, used to add biomass and for nitrogen fixing. These have allowed an impressive resurgence in the bees and birds they see on the estate. Domaine Mirabeau is also phasing out tilling between the rows and has adopted plant concoctions to improve disease resistance.

For Cronk, it is the best way to ensure a healthy, terroir-led crop. Although the estate has not yet produced enough wines for a full tasting comparison, he is convinced the project will be vindicated in the quality produced: “Ultimately it’s simple: a healthy soil with healthy vines, getting bioavailable nutrients will make great fruit, which will give you the opportunity to make a better wine.”

There are already good signs. Domaine Mirabeau La Réserve 2022 secured a Gold medal in the blind-tasted Global Organic and Vegan Wine Masters. The wine comes from a small selection of these regenerative vineyards, showing the first potential of the domaine.

A blend of Grenache, Vermentino and Cinsault from selected parcels, it stands aside from stereotypical Provence rosé as it is predominantly oak aged. The 400 and 500 litre lightly toasted oak barrels add subtle, well-integrated oak flavours to the wine. Meanwhile, an addition of 10% unoaked rosé contributes a fresh accent.

With Cronk terming it “a sipping gastronomic rosé, rather than a fun poolside partner”, it is a more serious-minded rosé than many of the primarily quaffable examples on the market. Still, though the landscape may inspire poolside lazing, protecting Provence’s natural heritage is a serious business. With its focus on regenerative viticulture, Maison Mirabeau is demonstrating a serious commitment to that future.

For more information on regenerative viticulture visit the website of the Regenerative Viticulture Foundation, which was co-founded by Stephen Cronk in 2021.