Wine List Confidential: The Dining Room at The Oriental Club

When visiting The Dining Room at The Oriental Club, Douglas Blyde ponders whether this 200-year-old institution should move with the times and offer a “more international, more adventurous wine dossier”.

“Could this be London’s grandest cul-de-sac?” posed TripAdvisor’s oddly named ‘futtock21’ of The Oriental Club, whose dining room has been revived in time for the 200th anniversary. Meanwhile, Sphere’s Candice Tucker recalls the party marking the bicentenary, which brought together “the old and the new with VR Clay Pigeon shooting” with the bonus of a “display of archival memorabilia, such as old house rules from 1961 stating, ‘Members are particularly requested not to throw letters or envelopes into the W.Cs’.”

Design

Acclaimed by Historic England for its “giant engaged Ionic portico,” “sculpted tympanum,” and “Louis XVI style staircase inserted by Lord Derby,” the Grade I Stratford House became the Club’s third headquarters in 1962. Frequented by resident rescue felines, Fiss and Malcolm, who bear no resemblance to the brass lion door knockers at the entrance, the Club features a formerly mint coloured dining room revamped in blood red by Russell Sage Studio, complete with a snippet of the original carpet framed beside the wine fridges. We do however wonder why the designer did not work harder on aspects of climate control and on improving the dressing to windows which are bereft of a view. It also boasts a billiards room where Steve Davis recreated a victory, an inviting terrace beside a chalet setup atop fake grass which doubles as a stage, and a duet of bars perfect for an essential pink gin. Additionally, there are 40 bedrooms which we were not permitted to glimpse. Take note, stowaways, these “may only be shared by a Member with another Member or an Associate Member.”

Founded by the Duke of Wellington as a haven for returning officers and officials from India and the East, today’s members enjoy reciprocal arrangements with nearly 70 clubs worldwide. This includes the Hong Kong Bankers’ Club, the Mercantile Athletic Club in Jakarta, the Cosmos Club in Washington DC, and closer to home, the Leander Club in Henley-on-Thames.

Bevande

Prior to wine, the likeable Elena Barattini, worked in sports marketing, with her clients including the Italian Olympic Committee at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. She subsequently worked in-store at Fortnum & Mason, then entered club land as a sommelier at The Royal Automobile Club. In addition to consulting to The Oriental Club, Barattini, who was raised near the famous quarries of Carrara, is a certified wine trainer, running WSET courses globally via the electronic ether, as well as for the Club’s members, and its team.

Alas, so dull as to be almost unseen, the by the glass selection opens with a Picpoul de Pinet (£8/175ml), ascending, thankfully to the majestic, marzipan-scented 2016 Château Filhot, a Sauternes property which Barattini escorted members to (£17/125ml) via a lesser-spotted, homegrown 2020 Blanc de Noirs (£10/125ml). The latter is reaped from Court Garden, a Ditchling estate known for its self guided vineyard tour and events programme including the “fascinating and entertaining evening with the Reverend Richard Coles” in which, alongside a cash bar, he talked of his journey “from choir boy to 80s pop star … he was even a contestant on Strictly Come Dancing.”

Given a proportion of members ought, contractually, to have the right to sip away their afternoons in comfy armchairs, or by playing bridge, corresponding sweet and fortified wines are popular, including the 100ml of albeit slow-going Pedro Ximénez at £15 (Fernando de Castilla “Antique”).

By the bottle, £28 is the entry ticket to a 2022 Côtes du Rhône Reserve de l’Abbé bottled by the same cooperative as the Picpoul, described by users of Vivino as “easy”, “nice”, “not too much going on”, “quite pleasant”, and “a bit dull”. For £3 more, Marc Lurton’s Château Reynier 2020 Bordeaux Superieur is likely to offer a tad more structure. Knowing their niche, this brand also supplies The East India Club, a 20-minute stroll south.

From the same family as Lynch-Bages, Château Les Ormes de Pez 2009 (£117) is the oldest Claret on the list, effectively dashing dreams of evaporating something of legendary maturity amidst the historic artefacts of the building. The poshest pour available from the world’s largest fine wine region is Château Léoville Barton from the erratic 2014 vintage at £152. Mark-ups are around two to two-and-a-half times retail.

Despite being a Langhe ambassador, Barattini lists just two wines from the territory, including a Nebbiolo (Rizzi, £67) from an Italian selection which barely breaks half a dozen bins. This also includes what we hope is the precocious rather than premature, Rosso di Montalcino from Pian delle Vigne 2022 at £68. Sadly, no wines nod to the Orient despite the title of the Club. When asked why, Barattini described her role as being “responsive” rather than challenging, noting, “some sommeliers are egocentric – I’m not.” Therefore, to list bottles requiring courage to sell is “not fair to either guest or wine.”

However, suggesting that there is actually interest in wine beyond the parameters of the list, a busy wine tasting schedule operates in parallel, which sees the likes of Amathus’ Jeremy Lithgow MW take guests on a world tour of sparkling wine.

Piatti

A collection of recipes by Richard Terry, head chef of the Club from 1851, reveals that members once enjoyed dishes such as “calf’s tail à l’Indienne,” “teal curry,” and the Filipino soup “Bulcachong.” Under the long-term head chef, Arkadiusz Forystek (formerly of The Goring), today’s menu still features classic curries and a trolley heaving with the roast of the day.

Dining with Barattini, we chose from a menu presented without prices, beginning with an over generously portioned “selection of Indian Streetfood,” the highlight of which was a lamb samosa, highlighting Forystek’s aptitude to deliver strong flavours, though not particularly beautiful plating. With this, Barattini, a self-proclaimed “big Riesling fan,” paired Hugel et Fils’s Estate Riesling from 2019. She noted she would only opt for a more conventional Gewurztraminer if “people are really into it,” given its tendency towards bold aromatics, high alcohol, and soft acidity. After the deeply spiced dish was cleared, the Riesling revealed notes of “apricot and guava” she added. Although we both agreed that a sparkling wine might have paired better with bhajis, which were common to both our starters, Barattini, who often believes “Champagne is the answer,” did not think to test this theory, sadly.

Next, tender tandoori lamb rump with grainy millet Khichdi, a lamb croquette, and black cardamom sauce. Barattini paired this with Diego Morra Verduna Pelaverga 2022 from Langhe. With its advanced rosé colour and gentle, versatile profile, the red featured bright fruits on the nose followed by pepper on the palate – “high in rotundone, like Syrah,” according to Barattini. Although the most interesting match of a meal which did not even feature the offer of an aperitif, if truth be told, it lacked the energy to truly harmonise with the confidence of the dish. Special mention must however go to the chef’s comfortingly aromatic garlic naan.

Finally, a delightful, powdery, cone-shaped pistachio kulfi with chopped pineapple compote proved to be the dish of the meal, paired with the leonine of label, honeycomb and lime-evoking 2016 “Rieslaner” Auslese from Pfalz producer, Reichsrat von Buhl. Bred for botrytis, this century-old cross of Silvaner and Riesling was, like the Pelaverga, a new discovery for us, though again, as had become thematic, underpowered with the cuisine.

Ultima parola

Beyond the forcefield-like turn into Stratford Place from the chaos of Oxford Street, The Oriental Club exudes charm and patina. Far from being full of fogeys, as shown in the make-up of today’s diners, the Club hosts a diverse, global mix of guests spanning the generations. The refreshed, decidedly unintimidating dining room, seemingly fit for another two hundred years, particularly stands out with its dedicated table for solitary diners to strike up conversations.

Despite discovering two new wines today, we believe that educator, Barattini owes the club’s engaged members a deeper, more international, more adventurous wine dossier which, like the work of any good teacher, determinedly, wholeheartedly transcends the mediocre. She might draw inspiration from the words of anti-prohibitionist, Eleanor Roosevelt: “Do one thing every day that scares you,” when making future listings. Her devoted front-of-house team, and the bibulous, worldly, often young members, might ultimately express their gratitude.

Il migliore per

• Characterful Calcutta Light Horse Bar
• Annual members’ wine trips
• Diverse membership

Value: 91, Size: 85, Range: 85, Originality: 85, Experience: 92; Total: 87.6

The Dining Room at The Oriental Club – Stratford House, Stratford Place, London, W1C 1ES; 020 7629 5126; orientalclub.org.uk