Colli Berici punches above its weight with medals for its Carmenere

Though just a small denomination in Veneto, Colli Berici proved its fine wine prowess with top medals at the recent Global Carmenere Masters.

If thinking of Carmenere, Italy is probably not the first country to come to mind. Perhaps you would think of France, where it has for centuries found fame as one of the official red grapes of Bordeaux. Or, if thinking with a more contemporary angle, Chile could come to mind. After years misidentified as Merlot, Carmenere was rediscovered there in the 1990s; Chile now produces most of the world’s supply. However, the small Italian region of Colli Berici is making a strong case to be considered alongside those giants of Carmenere production.

Colli Berici, situated in Italy’s northeastern Veneto region, has some similarities with each. Like Bordeaux, the Veneto region has a rich winemaking history. Indeed, its grape growing traditions stretch back at least as far as the Romans, comparable to the famed French region.

Like Chile, Carmenere in the region underwent a case of mistaken identity. Carmenere has been grown in the Colli Berici for 150 years, but it was long considered a type of Cabernet Franc. Although given various names to acknowledge its different character – Gros Cabernet, Bordeaux Nero and Cabernet Franc Italiano among them – it was also established as Carmenere in the 1990s.

Yet the Colli Berici shows substantial differences when compared to the two regions. Indeed, it is carving out a reputation for boutique wines with a distinctly Italian character.

The Colli Berici DOC covers around 600 hectares of vineyards, and produced 1.65 million bottles in 2023. These figures cover all grape varieties and styles, in which Carmenere plays a small but crucial role. As a contrast, in Chile (where Carmenere is the country’s third most planted red grape) there are 172,000ha of vineyards.

There is a difference, too, in the geography. The ‘colli’ of the denomination translates to ‘hills’ and an undulating landscape is key to its appeal. While in Bordeaux, for instance, 100 metres might be considered high altitude, here the vineyards can reach heights of 400m.

The network of hills and valleys confers several advantages. The often south-facing vineyards offer great sunlight interception, ensuring phenolic and tannic richness. The mid-slope sites are also ideal for protecting the vines from frosts, which gather on the valley floor rather than in the vineyards.

Such diverse topography is the result of complex geology. Like the more famous Soave, which it borders, the Colli Berici is a complex mix of sedimentary limestone and volcanic basalt. These respectively provide structure and aromatic elegance to the region’s wines.

The area is also defined by karst, the geological phenomenon of carbonate rocks dissolving to create features such as caves, sinkholes and underground streams. These are a vital reserve of water for the vines in vintages with less rainfall.

Thus, although only a small area, Colli Berici shows the diversity and complexity necessary for making high quality wines. In particular, the Carmenere demonstrates the intensity and ripeness that the Colli Berici can foster. The wines are defined by a deep colour and intense aromas of dark berries, coffee, chocolate and black pepper. On the palate, too, the wines demonstrate the region’s assets. The balancing acidity is characteristic of the higher altitude sites, while ripe and full tannins are evidence of the Italian sunshine.

Even though it is not the area’s most planted variety, Carmenere has become an essential component of Colli Berici. Indeed, the DOC recognised its importance in 2008, becoming Italy’s first denomination to include the grape in its regulations.

Moreover, the world is waking up to the region’s potential for Carmenere. In both last year’s inaugural competition and this year’s Global Carmenere Masters, Colli Berici won a clutch of medals. Even if the region is not the foremost for Carmenere, it is proving it can go toe-to-toe with more famous powerhouses.

Wines from this year’s Global Carmenere Masters are featured below, with notes from our expert judges.

Carminium DOC Colli Berici 2021

• Producer: Azienda Agricola Inama
• Region: Colli Berici, Veneto
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Carmenere
• Abv: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £32
• Medal: Gold

From the calcium carbonate hills near Vicenza comes this rather special Carmenere. Deep ruby-purple in hue, the wine has morello cherry, strawberry and bramble fruit, accented by vanilla pod and milk chocolate. Dry, the mid-weight palate shows brisk acidity and linen tannins, with plenty of white and black peppery spice. The Italianate edge suggests duck’s neck and smoked pork terrine with allspice, pepper and thyme, served with prunes soaked in tea and brandy. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

Colli Berici DOC Carmenere Riserva Oratorio di San Lorenzo 2018

• Producer: Azienda Agricola Inama
• Region: Colli Berici, Veneto
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Carmenere
• Abv: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £150
• Medal: Gold

The area of the Oratorio di San Lorenzo is a small valley immersed in unspoilt countryside: a traditional location inhabited for centuries by monks. It is here that Inama’s Carmenere vineyard lies, of which “Oratorio di San Lorenzo” represents the outstanding expression. Deep ruby-purple in hue, the wine is beautifully perfumed, showing red and black fruits and cedarwood, with peppermint and herbal notes. Dry, the palate has lovely balance and integration, with fresh acidity and satin-textured tannins giving structure. Complex, youthful with a brilliant future, the wine will pair nicely with duck confit. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

Carmenere Colli Berici DOC 2021

• Producer: Tenuta Monte San Giorgio
• Region: Colli Berici, Veneto
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Carmenere
• Abv: 13%
• Approx. retail price: £14
• Medal: Bronze

A touch of sweetness on this Carmenere, which shows sweet cherry and berry fruit alongside a touch of peppercorn. The palate is fleshy and ripe, almost jammy at the core, with dry, fine tannins on the finish. An easy to like red for the price.

Colli Berici DOC Carmenere 2022

• Producer: Società Agricola Ca’ Basso di Basso Fabio e Graziano
• Region: Colli Berici, Veneto
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Carmenere
• Abv: 12.5%
• Approx. retail price: £9
• Medal: Bronze

Light-coloured, with a touch of brick red on the rim, this has an Italianate character. Aromas of cooked plums and preserved cherries meet a more rustic meaty and savoury character. Tight and lean on the palate, with grippy tannins and fresh acidity.

Colli Berici DOC Carmenere Riserva 2020

• Producer: Del Rèbene
• Region: Colli Berici, Veneto
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Carmenere
• Abv: 13%
• Approx. retail price: £40
• Medal: Bronze

An intensely coloured red that leads with aromas of celery leaf, red apple and orange peel. The fleshy palate shows the same botes, joined by blackberry and a touch of chocolate. On the finish, grippy tannins emerge, along with warmth and a little balsamic.