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On the third day of Christmas

11 December 2024 By Colin Hay

For the third day of Christmas, db’s Bordeaux correspondent Colin Hay suggests a selection of single-parcel micro-cuvée or ‘climat’ wines for the true-love in your life.

The wines: The three single-parcel micro-cuvée or ‘climat’ wines of Closerie Saint Roc

Format: Three bottles, pure and simple, each expressing an exceptional and unique terroir.

Unique selling point: These wines come from the Amoreau family’s most recent acquisition, Closerie Saint Roc, situated in Puisseguin almost literally at the gates of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, on a continuation of the Côteau des Merveilles. It is formed of 16 hectares on a clay-silt and astéries limestone subsoil. Pascal and Valerie Amoreau, in partnership with Harold Langlais, took over the running of the estate in 2012. Their self-appointed task has been to reveal the complexity and unique character and identity of the distinct terroirs that comprise this singular vineyard. These three micro-cuvées are the fruits (literal and figurative) of that ambition.

Les Pins comes from a parcel of 1.3 hectares of predominantly clay-silt soil over a fossil-rich limestone bedrock (around 1 metre below the surface). It is planted with 100% Merlot. The east-west exposure ensures optimal sunshine throughout the day.

Les Noyers comes from a somewhat larger parcel of 2.9 hectares on a hillside location with a more shallow, sandier soil on a limestone bedrock between 50 and 80 centimetres below the surface. It is planted with 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot.

Les Sureaux come from another single parcel of 2.2 hectares planted on a 50-80 centimetre deep bed of essentially pure astéries limestone at an altitude of 80-100 metres. It is planted with 100% Merlot.

Yours for: These can each be found, with a little bit of searching, since the production is miniscule. Their recommended retail prices in Europe are: €75 for Les Noyers, €85 for Les Pins and €95 for Les Sureaux. I make that €255 for the case.

Tasting notes: The 2021 vintage shows off extremely well the aromatic signature of each of these micro-cuvées whilst also rendering these more accessible in their youth.

Closerie Saint Roc Les Pins 2021 (100% Merlot; aged in used oak for 18 months; 12% alcohol). Delicate yet highly expressive and very lifted and aerial aromatically. Plump red berries and floral and herbal notes intermingle with the fruit. There’s a slightly ferrous note to the minerality and a hint of spice. Succulent, soft and very appealing especially in this fresh and bright vintage. A little resinous – the plot seems well-named! 92+.

Closerie Saint Roc Les Noyers 2021 (80% Cabernet Franc; 20% Merlot; aged in used oak for 18 months; 12% alcohol). Much spicier and altogether fleshier and pulpier on the palate. Sweet spices, dried fruits, plums and damsons at first, though this turns more floral and herbal with aeration, the Cabernet Franc notes become ever more evident, though always in a restrained way. Tender and sapid in the mid-palate with a little more weight and density than Les Pins. 92.

Closerie Saint Roc Les Sureaux 2021 (100% Merlot; aged in used oak for 18 months; 12% alcohol). Spicy and rich yet fresh and focussed aromatically, this is very pure. Damsons, again, and assorted dark stone fruit, a little hedgerow bramble and blackberry too. And, with aeration, this turns a little more herbal with garrigue notes and wild thyme, perhaps a little rosemary too. On the palate this is the strictest and the most chiselled by its limestone terroir, giving it both a great purity and a certain austerity. The tannins are very crumbly ad chalky and this needs a little longer ideally in bottle – or at least a couple of hours in a voluminous decanter. 93.

*while the third day of Christmas is actually 27th December, the db offices will be shut between Christmas and New Year, so this should give you time to get organised and stock up!

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