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Is Monastrell the climate-adaptable grape the industry needs?
Monastrell has proved its resilience in some parts of southeastern Spain, with growers also finding ways to adapt to warmer conditions.
As climate change becomes an unavoidable reality, adaptation is evident across the wine industry. Appellation bodies and individual growers are having to ask serious questions in order to future-proof their livelihoods. Moves that would have been unprecedented 30 years ago are a routine announcement; both Bordeaux and Provence, for instance, have recently engaged in trials of foreign grape varieties that might perform better if temperatures rise.
If looking to adapt, such organisations could learn a thing or two from the Spanish Monastrell Association. The five DOs behind it – DO Alicante, DO Almansa, DO Bullas, DO Jumilla and DO Yecla – know very well that growing grapes in a warmer climate presents challenges. Yet, through a combination of natural resources and viticultural expertise, they are achieving high quality in tandem with higher temperatures.
A Spanish speciality: Monastrell
The primary natural resource they share is their signature grape variety. Monastrell is particularly adaptable in hot and dry climates, maintaining its charm where most varieties would struggle. Many grapes dramatically lose acidity and complexity at higher temperatures; Monastrell requires them in order to ripen successfully.
In particular, rather than maturing into a jammy, generic profile, Monastrell is capable of creating balanced, nuanced wines even in warmer areas. Its wines are diverse, but it is largely seen in refined, fruit-driven and balanced options on the market. The Association should know: between the five DOs, they tend to 80% of the world’s vineyard area of the grape.
Its potential for nuance and complexity means that Monastrell’s many styles – covering all price points and encompassing rosés; young and aged reds; and sweet and fortified examples – can express diverse terroirs from the five Spanish Monastrell Association DOs. The wines also benefit from musts with high potential alcohol, which open the door to making ageworthy wines.
Moreover, Monastrell has a particular resilience when water is scarce. The vines have been shown to regulate their vegetative growth according to water availability. They can maintain productivity during moderate drought and recover well after rainfall. Indeed, they are more water efficient than many other varieties, and so quality can be easily optimised through techniques such as deficit irrigation.
Experience in a warm climate
These producers of Spanish Monastrell also have much to teach in terms of viticulture. Although the variety has naturally resilient in southern Spain’s climate, growers have learned to supplement them with considerate winemaking. Particularly when crafting a balanced, elegant style, these have become essential in getting the most out of the grape.
One way to create a balanced wine is to let the grapes ripen during a cooler part of the growing season. Spanish summers can get very hot, and if grapes are ripening during a heatwave, there is a risk that sugar levels will rocket while phenolic ripeness lags behind.
To delay the ripening process, therefore, many growers across the five DOs choose to conduct a late winter pruning. That delays the life cycle of the vine, moving ripening past the height of summer. It is a method that can ensure the flavour profile of the grapes is matched by their structure, and crucially does not impact the yield or vine fertility.
Other techniques are also used to ensure the grapes will meet the intended style. Shoot-tipping (cutting off the young ends of shoots) after veraison ensures better distribution of water through the vine and reduces sugar concentration in the grapes.
In some cases, the work can be particularly dramatic. Replanting a vineyard is no small feat, but producers have realised that some sites benefit from an east-west orientation rather than the traditional north-south. Among the benefits touted are reduced sunlight exposure and more efficient water absorption. Adapting practices to the particular site is a lesson that all wine regions should pay attention to.
Indeed, as all wine-producing nations adapt to climate change, they would do well to pay attention to the Spanish Monastrell Association’s constituent DOs. With great expertise, and an adaptable grape variety, they have shown that high quality and adaptability is possible regardless of the climate. Their insights into warmer climate viticulture will only become more valuable in coming years.
Patrick Schmitt MW provides a selection of his notes for wines from the five DOs below.
Bodega Tercia De Ulea – Rambla De Ulea 2022 (DO Bullas)
A warming and tannic red with notes of plums, blackcurrants and a touch of cracked pepper and crushed rose petals.
Bodegas La Purísima – La Purisima Monastrell 2022 (DO Yecla)
A fine expression of old vine Monastrell from Yecla, with plenty of ripe red and black berry flavours mixed with peppery spice and a cherry-stone-like dry, fresh note, which mingles with the dense, firm tannic structure to make for a mouth-watering finish.
Bodegas Volver – Tarima Hill 2021 (DO Alicante)
A first-rate Monastrell for the price, this old vine expression from the high-altitude vineyards of Alicante delivers masses of flavour for a relatively low outlay. Mingling with the fleshy ripe raspberry and blackberry characters are notes of fresh plums then sweet vanilla, leather and dark chocolate, followed by a touch of pepper and plenty of dry firm and dense tannins to make the mouth water.
Bodegas Matamangos – Nostrum 2017 (DO Almansa)
A medium-weight Monastrell with plenty of black berry fruit, ripe plums, milk chocolate and grippy tannins, spicy pepper and bright acidity, with a touch of balsamic and sour cherry on the finish.
Casa De La Ermita/Esencia Wines – Casa De La Ermita Parcela Los Pinos 2021 (DO Jumilla)
A lovely, slightly-evolved and somewhat classic example of fine Spanish Monastrell, with a refreshing and especially drinkable zesty character, and notes of cherry and plum, pepper and leather, cedar and liquorice, along with balsamic, sweet tobacco and a touch of tangerine on the finish – then mouthcoating fine, dry tannins too.
Bodegas Bleda – Amatus 2021 (DO Jumilla)
Showcasing Monastrell’s suitability for making deliciously sweet wines, this example from Jumilla uses old vine fruit to yield a drop with plenty of dried fruit flavours, from raisins to prunes and figs, with some balancing freshness and dry tannic grip to make you want another sip.
Bodegas Castaño – Castaño Dulce 2018 (DO Yecla)
A maturing sweet wine from Yecla with notes of hay and leather, prunes and raisins, along with a touch of warming alcohol and a finish featuring dried cherries and mouth-coating fine tannins.
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