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Watermill Wines goes for organic Grillo

The new Parcel Series from Watermill Wines’ Terra Organica brand seeks to showcase organically-cultivated, but lesser-known grape varieties. db discovers why the inaugural release in the range is a Sicilia DOC Grillo.

Richard Dennis, commercial director of Watermill Wines, explained why a Grillo expression was the first wine in this new range: “After spending a lot of time exploring Sicilian wines, we found it to be an incredibly inspiring place for organic wine production. Producers are naturally inclined to grow organically thanks to the Mediterranean climate, which keeps grapes ventilated and healthy. Grillo is one of the shining stars of Sicily and Ottoventi produce one of the most expressive examples we’ve seen.”

In keeping with the wine’s Sicilian origins, Dennis said that it would be a particularly good match for arancini.

“In Trapani, they make them with slow-cooked mince and are packed with flavour. It’s also great with flavour-full salads and fresh seafood.”

Cantina Ottoventi, based in the province of Trapani on the western tip of the island of Sicily, cultivates local varieties, such as Zibibbo and Nero d’Avola, and international ones like Chardonnay and Syrah, in addition to its Grillo.

Grillo has exploded in popularity in recent years, with figures from Sicilia DOC revealing that the area of the island which was planted with the variety more than quadrupled, increasing from 2,141 hectares to 8,597ha between 2000 and 2022 – one of its key assets is its hardiness in hot conditions, a necessity given that Sicily has been at the forefront of climate change in Europe.

While Sicily has had its fair share of troublesome growing seasons in recent years, a sign of the extreme weather which has become the norm in Italy, Dennis still believes that organic viticulture remains the way forward: “It’s 100% the future of sustainable wine production, and we should be starting now. Organic grape growing has an incredible amount of benefits for the local environment and local populations. It’s healthier for the soils, the people and the wildlife.”

Of course, organic-certified wines often come at a slightly higher price, a result of the extra “intensive” measures taken in the vineyard, but Dennis remains assured that “the results are worth it”. In the case of the Terra Organica Parcel Series No. 1 Grillo, it retails at Ocado for £8.

“Organic wine is growing in popularity year on year and it’s becoming essential for retailers to stock a wide, quality-driven range,” he continued.

The 2023 vintage of Terra Organica Grillo has already received the distinction of a Bronze medal in the 2024 edition of the Global Organic and Vegan Masters.

Asked about what No. 2 will be in the Parcel Series, Dennis said that the options were being reviewed, and that there has already been “interest from producers”.

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