Ricossa champions Monferrato with its bold Barbera portfolio

The Barbera specialist reveals Monferrato’s heritage with several traditional wines – but Ricossa still maintains an innovative streak.

The bond between Ricossa and Piemonte is a long one. The brand is named after Lorenzo Ricossa, who, in the late 1800s, used his family’s historic building as a distillery. However, a steady stream of viticulturists visiting the distillery to chat over a glass of grappa soon led him to pivot towards wine production. By 1911, Ricossa had gained a strong reputation, winning gold medals for its Barbera in wine competitions across Italy.

Over a century later, Ricossa’s path merged with that of the MGM Mondo del Vino Group, which became part of the Argea Group in 2021. This evolution has given the company an international reach and allowed it to thrive in a dynamic market, all while preserving the traditional Piemontese values that have defined and driven the success of its products.

Ricossa resides in one of the most enchanting landscapes of the region. Tenuta Ca’ dei Mandorli, its base in Castel de Boglione, sits in the lush hills of Monferrato. The historic wine region spans the provinces of Alessandria and Asti, producing some of Italy’s most renowned bottles. With 74 hectares arranged in a natural amphitheatre of slopes, Tenuta Ca’ dei Mandorli is both a beautiful estate and a perfect position for winegrowing.

Those hills indicate the region’s advantages. With a variety of slopes and aspects, producers have a catalogue of sites from which to pick. The grapes might bask in full, ripening sunlight on south-facing slopes, or might make use of more sheltered or higher altitude plots to retain acidity. The soils likewise show great variety: the geological upheaval that formed the hills has left soils that range from sand to silt to clay.

Combined with the generous continental climate, where long warm summers with little rainfall promote steady, extended ripening, that varied geology creates an ideal situation for winemakers. If anything, its abundance of options might leave the prospective winemaker with too much choice.

Capturing the region in the bottle

Thanks to its long heritage, Ricossa can somewhat circumvent this problem. From its own estate, plus a further 46ha of partner vineyards across Monferrato, Roero and Langhe, it makes wines that represent the sheer viticultural wealth of the region. Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Arneis, Cortese, Moscato, Brachetto: the portfolio is a ‘greatest hits’ compilation of Piemontese winemaking.

One grape variety, however, takes pride of place at the heart of the collection. Barbera has been documented in Piemonte since 1798, and is now the most widely planted variety in the region. As a late-ripening variety, it thrives in Monferrato’s long summers, building complexity as it slowly matures.

The grape is known for its red cherry fruit and, even in warmer years, its reliably fresh acidity. It is also a versatile material in the winery, with both juicy unoaked styles and dense barrique-aged examples finding favour in the market. Perhaps because of its freshness and versatility, it is increasingly exported as a food-friendly all-rounder.

For Ricossa, Piemonte’s diversity expands to several expressions of this flagship grape. Its Barbera d’Asti DOCG selects from the producer’s best vineyards for a juicy, red fruit led style, while the Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG has extended ageing, including in oak, to add richer character and balsamic notes to the wine. Ricossa also produces, in its premium range, an expression of Nizza DOCG. This small appellation was elevated to independent status in 2014, as it had previously been a subzone of Barbera d’Asti DOCG. Ricossa’s intense, savoury wine demonstrates Barbera’s suitability for terroir-focused production.

Continuing innovation

Ricossa has, over many vintages, continued to push the boundaries of winemaking in Piemonte. Unsurprisingly, this has again been led by its efforts with Barbera. In bottles such as its Nizza DOCG and its sparkling Barbera del Monferrato DOC Frizzante, Ricossa has demonstrated its commitment to less familiar styles. However, it has also pioneered completely new expressions.

The 2003 vintage was, for many producers, a challenging year. Heatwaves across Europe led to concern for the health of the vines and, once vinified, worries that the wines would be overripe and lacking finesse. Ricossa shared concerns over the tough year, which punished vineyards with drought and shrivelled berries. At the harvest, however, they found a bright spot: an unexpectedly abundant, as well as high-quality, harvest of Barbera.

Seeing that resilience, the winemaking team began experimenting with unusual treatments of Barbera. They applied a technique most closely associated with Amarone, drying the grapes before fermenting in stainless steel. The success of these trials ushered in a new designation for the region: Barbera Appassimento DOC. Ricossa continues to champion the style, making a wine that blends rich jam and fig notes with the grape’s signature freshness.

Ricossa continues to operate with an innovative mindset. Its winery, built in 2004, has the modern facilities to experiment with Piemonte’s heritage grapes. In the vineyard, meanwhile, it is responding to the pressing need for sustainable pracitice in the wine industry. Its premium Campolibero range features Barbera d’Asti, Barolo and Barbaresco wines that are certified organic.

It is indicative of a producer balancing its own history with a bold approach. With an abundance of viticultural riches in Piemonte, the opportunities are limitless. Ricossa, particularly in its Barbera, demonstrates that you can explore those opportunities without neglecting a strong tradition.

Patrick Schmitt MW presents his tasting notes for three of Ricossa’s Barbera bottlings below.

Ricossa Piemonte Barbera Appassimento 2022

• Producer: Ricossa
• Region: Piemonte
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Barbera
• ABV: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £12

An impressive amount of wine for the money, this sub £15 red is loaded with flavours of juicy plums, as well as rich raisins, offset by a touch of sour cherry. So, while the wine is slightly sweet, and super intense as well as dense, the finish is fresh, helped by a large dose of dry tannins to make the mouth water.

 

Ricossa Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2021

• Producer: Domaine Bousquet
• Region: Alba, Piemonte
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Barbera
• ABV: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £13

A delicious, structured and refreshing red wine with notes of plums and prune, bitter chocolate and sour cherries, complemented by dense, dry tannins to coat the mouth and make one crave something fatty to eat.

 

Ricossa Noceto Nizza DOCG 2019

• Producer: Domaine Bousquet
• Region: Nizza, Piemonte
• Country: Italy
• Grape variety: 100% Barbera
• ABV: 14%
• Approx. retail price: £19

This is one hell of a supercharged Barbera, serious and structured, as well as deliciously fruity. At its core is fleshy dark cherry, complemented by notes of plum and raspberry, then a touch of sweet balsamic, followed by lovely layers of barrel-sourced flavours, from dark chocolate to cigar box – even a sniff of sweet tobacco – then some peppery spice. Intense, but not heavy, the mouth-feel is medium-weight, while the tannins are firm, fine, dry and lingering. A red that manages the tough job of bringing instant appeal and lasting freshness.

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