Wine List Confidential: Thames Lido

Douglas Blyde takes the plunge at Thames Lido, finding a “mistakenly-named” Champagne cocktail, and a wine pairing akin to “forcing polite strangers to share a table”.

Dating to 1902, Thames Lido “was designed in a less showy era, as a haven for private women-only swimming,” wrote Sally Goble in The Guardian, adding, “It was a secluded and closed affair: with red brick walls two storeys high, with no windows to allow outsiders to peer in.” Today’s operation is a far cry from its demure origins. The lido’s restaurant has become a destination in its own right, featuring “an open kitchen with a charcoal grill and wood-burning oven, bringing a sense of authenticity to the cooking techniques,” according to Square Meal.

Design

The lido’s renaissance, a meticulous three-year endeavour spearheaded by Marshall and Kendon – architects with a particular flair for reviving such spaces – has transformed this once-forgotten jewel into a sanctuary of chic sophistication. Abandoned to decay since its closure in 1974, it had been dismissed by locals as little more than a “disused swamp,” a haunt for the displaced and the downtrodden. Now, in a triumph of design and vision, the lido shines once more. Sleek lines, expansive plate glass, and a view from the tiered sauna which overlooks the swimming lanes, whisper of Scandinavian influences – no surprise, given the guiding hand of the Swedish-born, Arne Ringner, who also breathed life into its sister site, the Bristol Lido.

The pool, once fed by the very Thames itself, which spawned tales of tadpole invasions, is now a pristine 24.68-metre stretch, its waters warmed by a hydroelectric plant you can tour across the river. The original ornate struts, lovingly repainted to match the regal ironwork of Tower Bridge, draw the eye upward, while the walls, with their exposed brickwork, serve as a canvas for the impressionistic works of local artist, Yuliya Martynova. A long bar, cool and commanding, leads to an open kitchen, where flames contrast the ripples of the pool, creating a tableau at once calming and exhilarating. Above, swaying fabric evokes traditional pankhas, their gentle movement a reminder of a time when leisure was an art form.

Drinks

The lists at both the Thames and Bristol Lidos are thoughtfully curated by Ringner, with the expertise of Mark Thwaites, the Managing Director of both locations. Fittingly, Thwaites’ background in Sports Science from Liverpool John Moores University aligns with the athletic spirit of the lidos. While the wine offerings are primarily sourced from a single supplier – a point capable of deterring prosperous oenophiles – the list is democratic, boasting 25 bottles under £50, with five below £30.

Each Lido features local producers, here being the 2019 Preamble Brut from Hundred Hills (£12.75/125ml), its subtleties alas muffled by corseting flutes. The producer was highlighted during a recent dinner hosted at Thames Lido, during which the team pledged to help with the harvest. The commitment to local flavours extends beyond wine, with a trio of gins from Henley Distillery featuring in cocktails like the “Thyme & Honey,” which buoyantly delivers on its name. The nearby Renegade Brewery also contributes the Lido Lager, a light 3.4% brew perfect for those looking to stay steady in their lanes post-sip.

Still wines by the glass range from the 2022 Murcian Macabeo by Molinico Loco (£4.60/125ml) to a more intellectual rosé than most, being Ca dei Frati’s Rosa dei Frati Groppello, Marmezino, Sangiovese and Barbera from south of Lake Garda (£11.20). For those interested in bottles, noteworthy selections include Domaine des Sables Verts Glouglou Saumur-Champigny (£53) and Donnafugata’s 2019 Floramundi Cerasuolo di Vittoria (£70).

Three sherries by Valdespino add a touch of Spanish flair, including Inocente Pago de Macarnudo NV (£8.25/100ml), while the PX makes a particularly boozy cameo in a house-churned PX and raisin ice cream. However, the digestif section falters by omitting the producers and vintages for both the Moscato d’Asti and Sauternes.

Special mention goes to the coffee roasted by Extract Bristol, which adds a precise conclusion. However, there’s a curious mistake on the menu: the Champagne Cocktail is mistakenly made with Nyetimber, a formative English sparkling wine, rather than actual Champagne. Although the correct “English Sparkling Wine Cocktail” might be a bit of a mouthful, we would love to see who can come up with a name for our homegrown, traditional-method fizz which truly pops.

Dishes

From potentially jumping through flaming hoops to flambéing food, the kitchen is skilfully led by Iain Ganson, a former stuntman aspirant who previously helmed the Bell Inn at Waltham St. Lawrence, identified by CAMRA as having “a regionally important historic pub interior.”

Lunch began with sourdough from “Britain’s Best Loaf” winner, Imma The Bakery, Henley. Beyond a crisp crust, its airy centre was perfect material for absorbing vibrant basil oil. This was followed by a dainty trio of scallops, roasted in their shells and bathed in a balanced garlic butter. The dish paired with the Vinho Verde from Azevedo, a property more notable for its squat 16th century tower than its zephyr-like citrus, greengage and almond-scented white, here heightening the sweet herbs of the butter. Meanwhile, grilled whole quail, retaining its juiciness, was served with tangy, seasoned yogurt, burnt lime, and rose harissa. The pairing, a Veneto Merlot from Ca’ di Alte, initially seemed a disparate choice, like forcing polite strangers to share a table. However, as we continued, the flavours harmonised, with the Merlot echoing the warmth of the harissa.

The main courses continued the streak of excellence. Whole Megrim sole, was a steal at just £22. Accompanied by arroccina beans – reminiscent of baked beans which have never seen a sun lounger – more of the excellent garlic butter, and a refreshing fennel salad, this dish was a masterclass in simplicity. Being the still wine of the meal by some distance, Matošević Alba Malvazija from Istria, brought perfume, structure, and cheer to the odd of expression, pristine fish. Equally satisfying was bavette steak, served rare, with duck-fat potatoes and a luscious tarragon butter. This was paired with the three-year-old Papa Figos Douro Tinto from Sogrape’s Casa Ferreirinha, which, as per the Azevedo, is another house from the Mateus maker, which catering to all strata of drinkers, also owns the iconic Barca Velha.

Last word

Ganson’s kitchen offers two distinct experiences: a selection of small plates for those who prefer to dine on a deal while wrapped in the lido’s signature blue robes, and a more traditional three-course affair for dedicated gastronomes. While both menus offer their own charms, we can’t help but wonder if a unified approach might simply be better.

In the end, this cloistered, miracle of a survivor is not merely a place to eat – it’s a profound escape from the everyday. Here, history and modernity dance in perfect step, creating an atmosphere which lingers in the mind long after the final sip has been taken. Yet, with a few thoughtful tweaks which Ganson’s noteworthy talent truly deserves – expanding the wine list, investing in regular wine education for the eager team, diversifying suppliers, and upgrading the glassware – the experience will reach new heights, leaving an indelible mark on those fortunate enough to find themselves within its historic walls.

Best for

• Collaboration dinners, e.g. Lido X Cliveden House
• Swim, massage, and meal package
• BYO Tuesdays

Value: 95, Size: 84, Range: 89, Originality: 91, Experience: 96; Total: 91

Thames Lido – Napier Rd, Reading, RG1 8FR; 01182149388; thameslido.com

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