Domaine de Baronarques kicks off hors Bordeaux campaign

Autumn is nearly upon us and as August (almost) turns to September, db looks at the first of the new hors Bordeaux offerings from La Place. Colin Hay reports.

They come from Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s Domaine de Baronarques and will be offered with an ‘open market’ distribution in all countries excluding Japan and the United Kingdom, through an extensive pool of some 27 négociants (amongst them the stars of the hors Bordeaux market).

This is Domaine de Baronarques’ second release on La Place with an open market distribution, though the wines have been sold through La Place since 2005. 

Domaine de Baronarques is an historic domain, dating from the mid-16th century when it was known as Domaine de Lambert and was owned by the nearby Abbey of Saint-Polycarpe. It is located in the appellation of Limoux in the Aude department of Southern France.

The estate itself is 110 hectares. However, only 43 hectares are under vine and they form an essentially single block. But don’t be deceived. This is a veritable patchwork of very different terroirs and micro-climates, ranging in altitude (from around 250 to 350 metres) and varying in exposition, wind currents and soil types. At the same time, the entire vineyard is profoundly influenced by its almost unique combination of Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences and by its proximity to the Pyrenees – shaping very significantly the circulation of air and contributing to the inherent freshness of these wines despite their essentially southern location. 

Crucial to this is that Domaine de Baronarques is where the regionally-predominant air flow from the Mediterranean south, funnelled and channelled by the contours of the valleys in the foothills of the Pyrenees, meets that from the Atlantic rather further away. The combination and interaction between these influences forms the micro-climate of the vineyard. Altitude is no less crucial, contributing as it does to the fresh nights which, in turn, allow a longer, slower maturation of the grapes on the vines (as is very discernible in the quality of the tannins).

Freshness also comes from the typically low pH and natural acidity of the predominantly limestone-rich sub-soils. And whilst, above all in the context of recent vintages, alcohol levels in the Chardonnay have been rising, this is now compensated for with the lower alcohol and additional freshness of the Chenin Blanc (a recent addition to the complexity of the terroir-varietal matching that is so integral to the white as much as the red).

Though the appellation rules, for the red at least, are invariably referred to as permitting the bringing together of Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, that is not at all how the property thinks of them. Its philosophy is much more based on matching what are seen as locally indigenous varietals to the diversity of terroirs on offer at Domaine de Baronarques. This is the key to the complexity of both wines in that it provides a rich palette of vinous opportunities from which the wine is assembled, much like an artist constructing a painting on a blank canvas. 

My comprehensive tasting notes for the hors Bordeaux autumn collection will be published, region-by-region, as the first releases start to emerge from next week. But here, as a sneak preview, are my thoughts on the Baronarques releases. 

Tasting Notes

Domaine de Barronarques 2022 (Limoux; 49% Merlot; 23% Syrah; 17% Cabernet Franc; 6% Malbec; 5% Cabernet Sauvignon; 15% alcohol). A immediately captivating and rather classical note of cedar. Glossily textured, lithe and limpid, gracious and refined, elegant and fresh. Lots of cassis, graphite and crushed fresh and croquant berry fruits – mulberry and raspberry predominating. There’s an evident link to left-bank Bordeaux here, notably in the quality of the tannins. Impressive, above all in the context of a somewhat  challenging vintage. 94.

La Capitelle de Baronarques 2022 (Limoux; 54% Merlot; 26% Malbec; 20% Syrah; 15% alcohol). Quite deep and rich, aromatically expressive, with a nice touch of cedar alongside the plum and black berry fruits. A little spice and both black and green Szechuan pepper from the Syrah and a leafy florality that seals in the freshness. No less impressive than the grand vin given the challenges of the vintage. 91.

Domaine de Baronarques blanc 2022 (Limoux; 97 Chardonnay; 3% Chenin Blanc; 14% alcohol). This is bright, crisp and aerial. Candlewax; fifty shades of citrus; crushed rocks; and then the fruit – white grapefruit, citron pressé, blood orange, orange blossom, green tea. There’s a distinct lime cordial note too with some of the viscosity that implies. Texturally rich but aromatically fresh and very vertical. Juicy. Refreshing and very clean on the finish. A triumph. 94.