Unfiltered: Ian Sheldrake, Sparrow Italia, Mayfair

The beverage director of the Mayfair institution talks to Douglas Blyde about uncorking finery from a “woeful” year, the venue’s secret cellar, and the brilliance of women.

What have you savoured from your birth year?

The balanced Fonseca port from the otherwise woeful 1992 vintage, opened in lockdown. Fortunately, I saved the rest of the case for the coming years.

Where does your interest in wine stem from?

It all started in 2016 when then bar manager, Darren Ball hired me for The Ivy, West Street. From that point my eyes were opened to the wonders of JL Chave and cru Beaujolais. I was fed a diet of wine books, and taken to tastings. It all came to a head when Clement Robert MS became group head sommelier for Caprice Holdings. He ramped up training and tastings, exposing me to wines I had previously only read about.

Where else did you work?

I started in pubs in Gloucestershire and, after The Ivy, spent a year at Soho’s Century Club.

How did you come to Sparrow Italia?

Although initially rejected for 34 Mayfair, I must have made a good enough impression given I later got a call from the restaurant director who had been on the interview panel inviting me to appraise the building site which would become Sparrow Italia. I was sold.

What are the strengths of your list?

We strived to build a selection offering relative value from entry to the greats while showcasing regional Italians. I’m fond of Yohann Pinol’s emblematic Côtes du Rhône, Stefano Occhetti’s delicate Roero Arneis, and the 2016 Saffredi – a great alternative to bigger ticket Super Tuscans. I am also following the harmonious Sardinian wines of Ghirada Garaunele – A, Barbagia Rosso by Esole, whose winemaker trained at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

What is the secret stash at Sparrow Italia?

In addition to our core 240 bins, our sommeliers draw from an additional 50 bins to heighten a guest’s experience. These might include Vajra’s brilliant Barolo Coste di Rose 2016, back vintages of Pieropan’s La Rocca, and venerable Bordeaux such as 1961 Montrose

What are your finest Coravin pours?

Henri Gouges’ Nuits St Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru 2014, and Barrici Brunello di Montalcino 2017.

What grape could you live without?

Flabby Torrontés from warmer years.

What is your best table?

Given our size, I chose two. Table 122 at the centre of the dining room is a fantastic round table for six to devour lobster acqua pazza and impressive cuts of Italian wagyu, while 18 in the crudo bar allows two guests to survey the whole space in seclusion.

What is Sparrow Italia’s Wine Club?

Every Monday we mark down leading wines to just above cost to tempt guests to enjoy the rarer fruits of our cellar. This has already proved a hit with the wine trade who, knowing the value of such leading wines, can find the excuse to treat themselves.

What else are you doing to entice producers, trade, and media?

We regularly open our doors to our suppliers to host wine dinners, designing bespoke menus to heighten the wines. We don’t charge corkage for these. Given our multitude of spaces, we are well set up to hold vintage launches and tastings, be it walk-up tastings, or more in-depth panel discussions like the recent judging of the Drinks Business Packaging Awards. As per the Monday events, we solidly aim our wine club at the trade so they can access incredible wines at great prices.

What has been a memorable match with a dish by chef, Ivan Simeoli?

Our most successful pairings are based on the food Ivan grew up with, including Fassona fillet with field mushroom jus, paired with 2012 Pinot Nero by Vignae del Duline. The reception to our specialist cuts and rare breed beef has been so strong we are building a section on the menu ranging from Fassona to Marango and beyond.

And what does he rate?

Brunello and white Burgundy.

What has been an important lesson?

For years, the drinks industry failed to recognise the hotbed of talent under its nose: the work of many inspiring women was effectively overlooked and, in some cases, pushed down. It is only now, owing to the work of women like Queena Wong of Curious Vines, that this wrong is being righted. Being inspired and mentored is vital in this industry, and the work being done now is of paramount importance, ranging from meet-ups and casual tastings, with talks from leading industry women, to the incredible Master of Wine preparation courses.

What might potential guests be surprised by about Sparrow Italia?

We might appear no more than a bar and dining room from the street. However, our five floors also encompass a bright, private dining room, roof terrace on which we serve our full a la carte, and cigar lounge with walk-in humidor. The latter is headed by the mighty Syafiera Rosidi and plays host to a calendar of events and partnerships.

What ingredient do you love?

Anchovies.

…and loathe?

Mass-produced truffle oil.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?

I studied physics then took the mature decision to go into finance. However, I found more fulfilment when making cocktails in my local bar, which led me to today.

What would your superpower be?

To never break another glass!

Who, from history, would you take to lunch?

Physicist, Richard Feynman. Reputedly one of the world’s greatest teachers, he gave some of the most influential lectures at the California Institute of Technology in the 1960s. Incredibly inquisitive, he traded physics lessons for painting and drawing classes with a local artist. While he stopped drinking later in life, I’d love to open Pinot Noirs from across the world with him to compare the factors affecting their character.

Perhaps Littorai Haven 2019, 2012 Vingae del Duline Pinot Nero, and great Burgundy from Domaine Ponsot…

Sparrow Italia – 1-3 Avery Row, London, W1K 4AJ; 020 3089 9501; sparrowitalia.com