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The best white wines for spring

22 March 2024 By Patrick Schmitt

Following our annual Spring Tasting last month, we reveal the best white wines for sipping as the days lengthen and weather warms up, featuring 14 wonderful bottles from England and Canada, Austria and Romania, along with Chile and Portugal.

Busi Jacobsohn, Blanc de Blancs, 2018

Producer: Busi Jacobsohn
Region: South East Sussex
Country: United Kingdom
Vintage: 2018
Grape varieties: 100% Chardonnay
ABV: 12%
Residual sugar: 6g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £59
Medal: Gold

There must be few better ways to toast the arrival of spring than English sparkling, with its crisp orchard fruit flavours and fine bubbles. And Busi Jacobsohn is a brilliant producer, crafting fine fizz from south-west facing vineyards in East Sussex, like this pure Chardonnay, with its layers of lively, persistent zesty lemon and fresh apple characters, complemented by subtle notes of hazelnut and baked bread from the five years this wine spends on its lees. (Patrick Schmitt MW)

Longverdejo

Winery: Bodega Cuatro Rayas
Region: Rueda
Country: Spain
Vintage: 2022
Grape Varieties: 100% Verdejo
Abv: 12.5%
Residual Sugar: 1.8g/L
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £17.70
Medal: Gold

They may be rare, but they are delicious, and that’s oak-influenced Ruedas, like this wonderful top expression from Cuatro Rayas, which combines high-quality Verdejo grapes with fine French barriques. The result is a straw-coloured white wine with aromas of almond and orange blossom, complemented by flavours of creamy pear and white-fleshed peach, yellow cherry, and then zesty characters of tangerine and grapefruit. In short, this is a persistent, layered and complex wine with plenty of youthful appeal but also the power and structure to age and develop more honeyed notes over the next three to five years.

RAW Riesling, 2019

Producer: Big Head Wines
Region: Four Mile Creek, Niagara County
Country: Canada
Vintage: 2019
Grape varieties: 100% Riesling
ABV: 14.1%
Residual sugar: 6g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £24
Medal: Gold

Best known of course for its mighty falls, where the Niagara River plunges over a limestone escarpment, Niagara County is also home to fine wines, particularly those made with cool-climate grapes like Riesling. This example from Big Head Wines serves as proof of the quality attainable in this part of Canada, although stylistically, this Riesling is not light, young and zesty, but powerfully-flavoured and evolved. That means it’s rich in characters from raisins to dried apple, even burnt sugar, but with a dry, salty, slightly nutty finish, making for an appealing, versatile wine that would pair well with hard cheeses or cured meats. (Patrick Schmitt MW)

Riesling Smaragd, Ried Kalkofen, 2022

Producer: Gritsch FJ
Region: Wachau DAC
Country: Austria
Vintage: 2022
Grape varieties: 100% Riesling
ABV: 13.5%
Residual sugar: 3.8g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £40
Medal: Gold

Highlighting the quality, balance and intensity of Wachau Riesling is this outstanding wine from Austria’s FJ Gritsch. Deep in colour, and rich in flavour, there is so much to love about this oily, full, complex white wine, from its flavours of tangerine and apricot, pink grapefruit and lemon rind, to salty-fresh, slightly-citric finish, complemented by a lingering, fine chalky taste and texture to give a lovely dry sensation to what is quite a powerful white wine. Delicious on its own or with a wide variety of foods, from creamy fish dishes to white meats, or Wiener schnitzel. (Patrick Schmitt MW)

Sauvignon Blanc, Ried Leibnitzer Rosengarten, T.M.S.

Producer: Kodolitsch
Region: Sudsteiermark DAC
Country: Austria
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
ABV: 13.5%
Residual sugar: 4g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £40
Medal: Gold

If you love fine Sauvignon Blanc, then Syria should definitely be on your radar: this Austrian area is carving out a reputation for outstanding Sauvignons with powerful flavours and a wonderful, distinctive rich-yet-refreshing character. Kodolitsch has yielded a remarkable example from a great site, with a similar appeal to a fine Bordeaux Blanc, in that this Styrian oak-influenced Sauvignon has notes of ripe fruit and a citrusy bite, as well as a touch of sweet barrel-sourced elements, with means that the wine takes you through a series of appealing stages, starting with nutty and zesty aromatics, then flavours of pineapple and pear, followed by notes of creamy vanilla and coconut, juicy grapefruit, then a hint of pea and nettle, with a finish featuring bitter lemon and orange rind. In short, it’s delicious. (Patrick Schmitt MW)

Crama Grabai, Muscat Ottonel, 2022

Producer: Grama Grabai Winery
Region: Dobergea
Country: Romania
Grape variety: 100% Muscat Ottonel
Abv: 14.1%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £15.00
Medal: Gold

Located in the centre of the Dobrogea plateau, near Murfurtlar, the gentle breezes from the Black Sea moderate the climate on this 11ha estate to produce excellent grapes for elegant wines. This expressive dry Muscat Ottonel has a very pale lemon-green colour with lemon-lime and tangerine fruit accented by white flowers. Dry with fresh acidity, the wine is light-bodied with good concentration and a hint of phenolic astringency giving a little grip on the back-palate. Good length and incredibly attractive, the wine is a lovely aperitif, or a perfect match for brown shrimps in lemon-white wine-crème fraiche sauce on linguine with a sprinkling of flat-leaf parsley. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

FJ Gritsch, Grüner Veltliner, Smaragd, Ried Klaus, 2022

Producer: Franz-Josef Gritsch
Region: Wachau
Country: Austria
Grape variety: 100% Grüner Veltliner
Abv: 14.0%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Screw Cap
Approx. retail price: £25.00
Medal: Gold

The vineyard of Klaus is located in Weissenkirchen, just north of the Achleiten vineyard, on weathered gneiss and slate soils. The site is breezy, thus well-ventilated, but with stone walls that radiate heat onto the vines at night. This wine, mid-gold in hue, has yellow apple and peach fruits with gentle smoke and a hint of pepper spice. Just dry, the ripe, almost tropical flavours are framed by bracing acidity and supported by well-integrated creamy oak. White pepper spice adds interest to the finish. An excellent choice for Thai cuisine. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

Müller, Riesling, Kremstal DAC, Ried Leiten, 2022

Producer: Weingut Müller
Region: Kremstal, Niederösterreich
Country: Austria
Grape variety: 100% Riesling
Abv: 13.0%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Screw Cap
Approx. retail price: £16.50
Medal: Gold

Founded in 1936, the winery and extensive vineyards are now operated by the third and fourth generations, headed by Leopold Sr. and Stefan. The Rieslings are always pristine and elegant, and this wine from Ried Leiten is a marvellous expression. Pale lemon-yellow, with fresh lime and green apple, the wine has a sleek, mid-weight palate, excellent concentration and leesy texture, framed by lively acidity. A very pretty wine of great purity and good length, it will match a delicate white fish such as Dover sole meunière. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

Kodolitsch, Sauvignon Blanc, Ried Leibnitzer Kogelberg, Alte Reben, 2021

Producer: Weingut Kodolitsch
Region: Südsteiermark DAC
Country: Austria
Grape variety: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Abv: 14.0%
Vintage: 2021
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £35.00
Medal: Gold

Located in the Leibnitz municipality, the 16ha Kogelberg vineyard faces south-southwest on a 16-degree slope, so attracts plenty of afternoon sunlight during the growing season, giving the ripe grapes for this very attractive wine. Medium yellowgold in colour, the wine shows apricots, passion fruit and ripe apples accented by creamy oak. Just dry and very ripe, the palate displays medium-full body and bright acidity supporting the flavours. Well-integrated and beautifully textured with a lengthy finish, this wine is perfect with Austrian cuisine, perhaps pumpkin gnocchi with a rich creamy sauce. (Patricia Stefanowicz MW)

Spusu, Wein Gemischter Satz, The First, 2022

Producer: Spusu Wein GmbH
Region: Niederösterreich
Country: Austria
Grape Variety: Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder
ABV: 12.5%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Cork
Approximate retail price: £25
Medal: Master

A beautiful, harmonious and exciting blend of aromas and flavours, with notes of wild flowers, camomile, jasmine and white tea, with a touch of citrus and golden peaches. The palate is truly charming – elegant and refreshing, with ripe, juicy acidity, moderate alcohol and a long, floral finish. This would be a perfect accompaniment to Japanese food, especially sushi, or to chicken pan-fried with morel mushrooms and spring greens. Organically farmed, the wine is also certified vegan. (Siobhan Turner MW)

Leth, Riesling, Ried Schillingsberg, 2021

Producer: Leth
Region: Wagram DAC
Country: Austria
Grape Variety: Riesling
ABV: 13.0%
Vintage: 2021
Closure: Screwcap
Approximate retail price: £25
Medal: Master

Intense, bright nose, really rich and expressive, with aromas of white blossom, pineapple and mango. On the palate this wine is concentrated and sumptuous, with rich, layered citrus and tropical fruit, a touch of smoky minerality and high, juicy, textured acidity. The finish is full and very long. Although lovely now, it is a young wine and will benefit from a further five or more years in bottle, and will certainly last for a further 10 years at least. In terms of food pairing, a spicy stirfry or pasta with fried lemon slices and chilli flakes would be perfect for bringing out the complex citrus tang of this wine. (Siobhan Turner MW)

Undurraga, Cauquenes Estate, 2023

Producer: Viña Undurraga
Region: Maule Valley
Country: Chile
Grape Variety: Viognier 50%, Roussanne 40%, Marsanne 10%
ABV: 14%
Vintage: 2023
Closure: Screwcap
Approximate retail price: £8.50
Medal: Gold

An amazingly good-value wine. The nose is really attractive, with clean, fresh floral aromas and a hint of rich spiciness. In the mouth it is surprisingly light, given the alcohol, with a lovely elegance and a touch of grip. The floral character continues on the palate, with fresh acidity and a rounded mouthfeel. This is a very lovely wine, and truly excellent value, for immediate drinking. Perfect as an apéritif, or with light chicken dishes. (Siobhan Turner MW)

Rreiss, Riesling, Ried Pletzengraben, 2022

Producer: Weinkultur Preiss
Region: Traisental DAC
Country: Austria
Grape Variety: Riesling
ABV: 13.5%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Screwcap
Approximate retail price: £25
Medal: Gold

A very floral nose, with a hint of fine herbs and some zesty lime, gives way to more evident citrus on the palate, with a lemon-lime quality. It is intense, rich and long on the finish, with an enticing brightness, and would pair well with freshwater fish dishes, prawns with lemongrass, or smoked salmon. Absolutely delicious now, but will improve over three years and keep for a further three at least. (Siobhan Turner MW)

Lipinski, Chenin Blanc, 2022

Producer: Lipinski Family Wines
Region: Niagara Lakeshore
Country: Canada
Grape Variety: Chenin Blanc
ABV: 12%
Vintage: 2022
Closure: Cork
Approximate retail price: £60
Medal: Gold

The wine’s golden hue, together with the touch of honeyed jasmine on the nose, marks this as a wine that has seen some botrytis. It has been skilfully handled, with a dry, clean, elegant palate that has a touch of creaminess. The finish has a hint of apricot and a lovely textural grip. Perfect with simple but finely cooked seafood and chicken. (Siobhan Turner MW)

Quinta do Noval, Reserva Branco, 2021

Producer: Quinta do Noval
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal
Vintage: 2021
Grape varieties: 60% Viosinho, 40%Gouveio
ABV: 14%
Residual sugar: 0.6g/l
Closure: Cork
Approx. retail price: £60
Medal: Gold

The Douro, which has garnered much acclaim for its fine reds, is starting to gain recognition for top-end whites too, and this Reserva Branco from Quinto do Noval provides justification for such a development. Allying French oak with Portuguese grapes Viosinho and Gouveio, this makes for a novel and authentic alternative to Bourgogne Blanc, with some of the latter ’s toast, nuts and freshly-struck match notes, but then a uniquely Douro flavour set that includes a mix of juicy lemon, white-fleshed peach, grapefruit pith and a touch of crushed rock. In terms of mouthfeel, this is quite a weighty white, but with a surprising bite, ensuring the finish provides a lingering sense of refreshment. Excellent now, but age-worthy too. (Patrick Schmitt MW)

All the medal-winning wines from The Spring Tasting 2024

About the competition

With high-quality judges and a unique sampling process, The Spring Tasting Masters provides a chance for your wines to shine. The 2024 competition was judged on Thursday, 8 February at Great Scotland Yard Hotel, London, employing experienced judges. The top wines were awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze medals according to their result, and those expressions that stood out as being outstanding received the ultimate accolade – the title of Spring Tasting Master. This report features the medal winners only. Please visit the Global Masters website for more information or, to enter future competitions – giving you the chance to feature online and in print – please call: +44 (0) 20 7803 2420 or email Sophie Raichura at: sophie@thedrinksbusiness.com

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