All the winners from the Global Grenache Masters 2023

From good-value quaffers to wines of substance, the diversity offered by Grenache was on full show at this year’s blind tasting, as Patricia Stefanowicz MW discovers.

Although there are nearly 200,000 hectares globally, making it the seventh most widely planted grape variety in the world, Grenache goes unrecognised by many consumers, even though they drink quite a lot of it. There are a few reasons for this contradiction. Firstly, the varietal name is rarely seen on a wine label. In Europe, where the vast majority of Grenache is planted, Grenache is buried in the AOP regulations. Garnacha Tinta, as it’s known in Spain, is a staple in the three sub-regions of Rioja and, in southern France, Grenache Noir is the mainstay of most red wines. Even in Australia, where Grenache has long been planted and vineyard area is increasing, the name is often buried as ‘GSM’ (Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro) on wine labels.

Grenache, from its presumed birthplace of Spain, has expanded to so many regions because it thrives in hot and dry climates. Our Global Grenache Masters investigated wines hailing from Australia, South Africa and California, to name just a few, taking in samples made from Grenache Noir (Garnacha Tinta), Grenache Blanc (Garnacha Blanca) and even some blends with Grenache Gris (Garnacha Roja).

When well-made, Grenache Blanc has lemon custard and orange blossom, zippy acidity and creamy texture. It works nicely in Australia, and in Rioja is a foil for Tempranillo Blanco. Whether unoaked or made with judicious use of older oak, it can make intriguing wines.

Grenache Noir, with its juicy, sweet fruit, provides the alcohol, red berry character and lively acidity to balance the tannic, herbal-scented, black-fruited Syrah.

Together, these two varieties form most southern French blends, with occasional additions of dense Mourvèdre, floral Cinsault, and/or structured Carignan. In this year’s judging, we found that unoaked Grenache from France or Australia gives exceptional value at under £20. Those from France are a little more structured; those from Australia packed with sweet fruit.

Many of the big Rhône producers make great-value Côtes-du-Rhône AOC wines based on this variety. Guigal, Vidal-Fleury and Chapoutier are reliable labels to look out for. We also judged some very attractive wines from Domaine de Coyeux, in the Beaumes-de-Venise AOC. Other crus, such as Cairanne, Vinsobres or Rasteau, are also worth searching out. At £10-£18, these wines are exceptional.

In South Australia, McLaren Vale delivers red berry and plum fruit with tobacco and black pepper spice from Shiraz blended in. GSM wines from South Australia, especially the Barossa, are superb; they have clarity and balance of fruit, gentle oak, good acidity and supple, though abundant, tannins.

Spain produces brilliant Garnacha and Garnacha-based blends at all price points. Garnacha Tinta is the major variety in Rioja Oriental, not far from Barcelona. Garnacha also shows its perfection in the highlands of Rioja Alavesa around the towns of Sanmaniego, Laguardia, Leza, Badiola or Viana, adding weight and breadth to the ubiquitous Tempranillo Tinto. A little further south, the mountains of Priorat, at an altitude of 600-800m, are a true homeland for unblended Garnacha, as we discovered with artisanal gem Creu Celta from Celler en Números Vermells, a snip at under £25. Meanwhile, Scala Dei, a collection of vineyards centred around a 12th-century monastery, makes pricy but perfect examples of pure Garnacha.

Grenache also forms the basis for some beguiling rosé wines, particularly in Navarra, Spain and Provence, where it tends to be blended with Cinsault and occasionally Syrah.

From inexpensive, crowd-pleasing ‘quaffers’ to serious, age-worthy ‘classics’, Grenache makes excellent wines in a variety of styles and price points. The following pages include some of our highlights from the competition.

Still White – Unoaked

Still White – Oaked

Still Rosé – Unoaked

Still Rosé – Oaked

Still Red – Unoaked

Still Red – Oaked