All the medallists from the Global Sangiovese Masters 2023

This year’s tasting dedicated exclusively to Sangiovese uncovered a kaleidesope of fabulous expressions from across the globe.

Sangiovese is quintessentially Italian, with the variety respected throughout the country. It is most prominent in Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria and the Marche, and the majority of the wines we judged in our 2023 Sangiovese Masters came from these regions stretching across central Italy. Sangiovese’s best-known vineyards are those of Tuscany, as well as in Chianti, Brunello, Montepulciano and Maremma. Here Sangiovese reaches some of its greatest expressions, but the quality is variable and depends on clonal selection, vineyard location and yields. At higher altitudes, or cooler vineyard sites, it is crucial to allow extra ripeness and to harvest later.

One of the most interesting aspects of Sangiovese is that high quality can be found at affordable price points, and Emilia-Romagna might just be the place to look. The judges found value-formoney with fresh and clean Sangiovese at under £10 from Fuori Porta, for example, and experienced plenty to enjoy at £10-15 and £15-20 from many regions. Over £20, the wines are often delicious. And, at stratospheric prices (over £30), the Tuscan wines, in particular, are complex and enticing, exhibiting red berry and bramble fruits together with beautifully integrated wood, often new and used oak, but occasionally large, traditional acacia barrels. After a few years’ bottle ageing these examples are delightful. And, with their brisk acidity and grippy tannins, the wines will evolve for a couple of decades, at least, and will accompany the best of Italian cuisine.

In this year ’s competition, the judges noted that 2018 and 2019, both superior vintages, showed very well. One of the most exciting aspects of this tasting was finding new ‘modern’ producers (albeit with rejuvenated old vineyards), such as Casisano, as well as long-time stalwarts, like Ruffino and Banfi among the top winners. The best Chianti Classico gave a gentle reminder that Chianti should not be shunned. The judges found plenty to love in Brunello di Montalcino, too, though if there is a minor criticism with the Brunelli wines, alcohol levels are creeping ever upwards (15%+), which occasionally makes the wines a bit tiring after a sip or two. For purity of flavour and elegance, one should look to Maremma, close to the cooling breezes of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

There were a few very good wines from Australia, where Sangiovese is making good strides in vineyard plantings, according to the AWRI National Vintage Report 2023, particularly in regions such as Rutherglen. Sadly, we did not see any examples from California, possibly because the local ‘Cal-Ital’ wine lovers snap them up upon release. It is well worth looking around the globe, however, because we found interesting wines from Maharastra, India, as well as Argentina, Switzerland, Malta, Turkey, Lebanon, Israel and South Africa. It is interesting to note, also, that a few producers are making white wines (Bianco di Nero) from Sangiovese and those we judged are refreshing and delightful. The judges concluded that Sangiovese is capable of greatness, but careful research and tasting is required to find the best wines.

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