The medallists from the Champagne Masters 2022

The year’s Champagne Masters saw a record number of Golds and Masters awarded, with vintage expressions proving the high point in terms of price-quality ratio.

Now in its 11^th year, The Champagne Masters has a long track record of identifying not only the best in the category, but also this fine sparkling’s strengths and weakness. In terms of unearthing the stars of Champagne in 2022, our experienced judges picked out more than 40 exceptional bottles (which are reviewed in full in our annual Champagne Report, out in a couple of week’s time). It may have been the biggest competition we’ve ever hosted, but that’s still an impressive number of truly great wines, and shows that the standard of Champagne is getting better.

But, having sampled so many bottles, what are the overriding trends? Dealing with each Champagne style in turn, let’s consider what the producers are getting right, as well as those areas where there appears to be some room for improvement. Starting with the entry-point, Brut NV, it should initially be noted that although this tends to represent the cheapest type of Champagne – and by far the largest sub-category by volume – it is still priced higher than the upper end of most rival sparkling wines. So, with fine Brut NV now costing over £40, it should be a seriously good glass of fizz.

For the most part, the standard of Brut NV being made today is excellent. A product of better viticulture and pressing, cleaner juices and more reserve wines, not forgetting longer times spent ageing on and off the lees, and improved bottling procedures, along with lower dosages, Brut NV today tends to mix depth and complexity with precision. At their best, these are layered wines, with honeyed notes, along with fresh fruit, and nutty, bready interest, along with dry and bright edge, ensuring that they serve that aperitif moment – for which they are crafted – brilliantly.

A benchmark in the competitive Brut NV sector is Piper-Heidsieck, especially its drier ‘Essential’, with a 5g/l dosage, although Lanson (both for its ‘Le Black and Le Green’ labels) is proving hard to beat, with its nutty and citric style. Also, Moët & Chandon garnered a Gold for its Brut Impérial, and, as the best-selling Champagne in the world, this fizz proves that it’s possible to be big and fine with sparkling wine. Indeed, scale may be preferable, giving one access to a wide range of wines for blending – a key for not just complexity and balance, but stylistic consistency too.

Commenting on this sector of the market, Champagne Masters judge, Jonathan Pedley MW described it as a “mixed bag with a handful of delicious wines mixed in with plenty of basic stuff.” Continuing he said, “The latter were often young, raw and lacking complexity. The better wines had maturity and complexity – doubtless derived from the judicious use of reserve wines and extended lees ageing.”

Agreeing, fellow judges Patricia Stefanowicz MW observed that “Champagne will never be inexpensive, and finding a number of exciting wines at the lower end of the £30-50 bracket with appealing fruit and fresh croissant or brioche accents, was a delight. Above £50 the Brut NV wines are excellent, and so they should be.”

It was with the move to the vintage category that our first Masters were awarded – an accolade reserved for those wines that are exceptional – with producers Joseph Perrier, Piper-Heidsieck and Henriot the sources of “wow-factor” fizz, to use Stefanowicz’s description for the best samples. Taking in harvests from 2014 back to 2006, it was notable how good the 2012s are, while the 2014s are showing their quality potential too. Recording the presence of “gems”; “A cluster of wines showed evidence of having been vinified from top quality fruit and then aged to add complexity and harmony,” Pedley said that this part of the Champagne offer is where the quality-to-price ratio seems to be highest. By way of explanation for this, he said, “With many houses focusing on Prestige Cuvées and other trendy things like Blanc de Blancs, standard Vintage seems to have become a quiet bye water where the consumer can pick up some excellent wines for sensible prices.”

Dealing next with the top-end expressions, Prestige Cuvée Champagne, there were more outstanding wines from the 2012 harvest, but also the first rate 2008, and, for a younger fizz, the relatively underrated 2013 vintage. Master-level quality was tasted from Deutz, Perrier-Jouët and Rare, as well as the multi-vintage flagship from Laurent-Perrier, called Grand Siecle, now carrying an edition number so one can find out the base wines and gauge the age of the fizz. Other delicious wines – if not quite Masters – hailed from some grower-cooperative producers, with Nicolas Feuillatte, Palmer and Castelnau picking up Golds, the latter for an exciting late-release from 2000 in magnum. Underrated names for greatness in this upmarket sphere included GH Mumm – it’s Lalou 2006 is delicious – and Pommery, whose Cuvée Louise is certainly a connoisseur’s prestige cuvée. Speaking generally about this category, Pedley recorded “glorious honeyed aromas and great length on the palate,” and “angina inducing prices to match.”

Testament to the increasing demand for Blanc de Blancs, this was one of the biggest sectors of this year’s Champagne Masters, and home to some fantastic wines, notably those from Henriot and Telmont, but also Mumm and Perrier-Jouët, Deutz and Delamotte, along with Piper-Heidsieck and Ayala, and Besserat de Bellefon with its grand cru bottling. Clearly impressed, Stefanowicz described the Champagnes as “pristine”, with “racy acidity”. Pedley recorded a more variable standard, and while excited by “butter cream” notes in one sample, said that some others seemed “simple”, with “an absence of leesy complexity and maturity.”

Such wines were, however, better than the blanc de noirs, which was “a small but slightly disappointing flight, marked by a couple of wines that were rather vegetal,” said Pedley, with the judges agreeing that Champagne does undoubtedly benefit from the addition of Chardonnay to the blend.

Finishing with rosé, it was agreed upon by the tasters that, with a few exceptions – such as the excellent samples from Laurent-Perrier, Perrier-Jouët, Pommery, Joseph Perrier and Besserat de Bellefon – to quote Pedley, “this was the biggest disappointment of the day”. Commenting that “Clearly making good Rosé Champagne is not as easy as a lot of people think,” he then recorded two types of poorer-scoring pink fizz: “At one end of the scale there were wines that were raw and simple, at the other end wines that were tired and lacking freshness.”

Stefanowicz felt similarly, commenting, “Whilst the range of colours was visual enchantment, many of the wines simply do not deliver on the nose and palate. And, of course, they are mostly expensive. That said, there were a few hidden gems. But, particularly at more than £30, I’d have expected much more definition and refinement than some of the wines delivered.”

Concluding on this category in the context of the overall competition, Pedley stated, “It is a bold thing to say, but if we steered consumers away from Rosé Champagne and towards standard Vintage we would be doing them a huge favour.”

The failure of some of the pink Champagnes to meet expectations aside, the overall standard of samples in this year’s competition was not only high, but higher than ever before. And with that in mind, please read on to see where the quality lies, as we reveal all the medallists from the Champagne Masters 2022.

Non Vintage
Name of Wine	Winery	Vintage	Dosage	Medal
£10-£15
Veuve Monsigny Champagne Brut	Aldi	NV	Brut	Bronze
£20-£30
Brut Prestige	GH Martel & CIE	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Montaudon Brut Tradition	Champagne Montaudon	NV	Brut	Silver
Grande Reserve	Chateau de Bligny	NV	Brut	Silver
Brut Tradition	Charles de Cazanove	NV	Brut	Bronze
Premier Cru Prestige	GH Martel & CIE	NV	Brut	Bronze
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top Brut	Heidsieck & Co Monopole	NV	Brut	Bronze
Réserve	36 Mois	NV	Brut	Bronze
£30-£50
Le Black Label Brut	Champagne Lanson	NV	Brut	Master
Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel	Piper-Heidsieck	NV	Extra-brut	Gold
Champagne Brimoncourt Brut Regence	Champagne Brimoncourt	NV	Brut	Gold
Pommery Apanage Brut	Pommery	NV	Brut	Gold
Réserve Brut	Telmont	NV	Brut	Gold
Besserat de Bellefon Bleu Brut	Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843	NV	Brut	Gold
Moët & Chandon	Brut Impérial NV	NV	Brut	Gold
Cuvée Royale Brut Nature	Champagne Joseph Perrier	NV	Brut nature	Silver
NV Extra Brut Grand Cru	Champagne Collery	NV	Extra-brut	Silver
Abelé 1757 Brut	Champagne Abelé 1757	NV	Extra-brut	Silver
Extra Brut NV Premier Cru	Champagne Frèrejean Frères	NV	Extra-brut	Silver
Brut Réserve	Champagne Vollereaux	NV	Brut	Silver
NV Brut Grand Cru	Champagne Collery	NV	Brut	Silver
Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut	Piper-Heidsieck	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Castelnau Brut Reserve	Champagne Castelnau	NV	Brut	Silver
Mumm RSRV 4.5	G. H. Mumm	NV	Brut	Silver
Brut Réserve	Champagne Palmer & Co	NV	Brut	Silver
Mumm Grand Cordon	G. H. Mumm	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Delamotte Brut	Delamotte	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur	Champagne Ayala	NV	Brut	Silver
Terroir Premier Cru	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	NV	Brut	Silver
Pommery Brut Royal	Pommery	NV	Brut	Silver
Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label	Veuve Clicquot	NV	Brut	Silver
Vranken Diamant Brut	Vranken	NV	Brut	Silver
Réserve Exclusive Brut	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	NV	Brut	Silver
Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée	Champagne Laurent-Perrier	NV	Brut	Bronze
Cuvée Royale Brut	Champagne Joseph Perrier	NV	Brut	Bronze
Brut Classic	Champagne Deutz	NV	Brut	Bronze
Brut Extra Intense Grand Cru	Champagne Haton	NV	Brut	Bronze
£50+
Grande Reserve	Champagne Gosset	NV	Brut	Gold
Le Green Label Organic	Champagne Lanson	NV	Brut	Gold
Célébration Premier Cru	Champagne Vollereaux	NV	Brut	Gold
Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Sublime	Piper-Heidsieck	NV	Demi-sec	Silver

 

 

Name of Wine	Winery	Vintage	Dosage	Medal
Vintage
£20-£30
Brut Millesime	GH Martel & CIE	2012	Brut	Silver
Collection Terroir – Premier Cru	Albert Lebrun	2012	Brut	Silver
£30-£50
Millesime 2008 Tradition	Charles de Cazanove	2008	Brut	Gold
Noble Vintage	Champagne Haton	2016	Brut	Gold
£50+
Cuvée Royale Brut Millésimé 2012	Champagne Joseph Perrier	2012	Brut	Master
Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2014	Piper-Heidsieck	2014	Brut	Master
Champagne Henriot Millésime 2012	Champagne Henriot	2012	Brut	Master
Brut Millesime 2015	Champagne Deutz	2015	Brut	Gold
Mumm Millésime 2015	G. H. Mumm	2015	Brut	Gold
Vinothèque 2012	Telmont	2012	Brut	Gold
Cuvée des Hussards 2012 Premier Cru	Champagne Frèrejean Frères	2012	Extra-brut	Gold
Millésime 2009	Champagne Brimoncourt	2009	Brut	Gold
Pommery Grand Cru	Pommery	2008	Brut	Gold
Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2014 Magnum	Piper-Heidsieck	2014	Brut	Gold
Grande Sendrée 2010	Champagne Drappier	2010	Brut	Gold
Empyreumatic 2014 Grand Cru	Champagne Collery	2014	Brut	Gold
Le Vintage 2009	Champagne Lanson	2009	Brut	Silver

 

Name of Wine	Winery	Vintage	Dosage	Medal
Prestige Cuvee
£50+
William Deutz 2013	Champagne Deutz	2013	Brut	Master
Grand Siècle Iteration No.25 by Laurent-Perrier	Champagne Laurent-Perrier	MV	Brut	Master
Rare Champagne Millésime 2006 Magnum	Rare Champagne	2006	Brut	Master
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2012	Perrier-Jouët	2012	Brut	Master
Champagne Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2006	Champagne Henriot	2006	Extra-brut	Gold
Palmes d’Or Brut Vintage 2008	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	2008	Brut	Gold
Rare Champagne Millésime 2008	Rare Champagne	2008	Brut	Gold
Amazone de Palmer	Champagne Palmer & Co	2012, 2010, 2009	Brut	Gold
Champagne Castelnau Oenothèque Magnum	Champagne Castelnau	2000	Brut	Gold
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 2013	Perrier-Jouët	2013	Brut	Gold
Mumm RSRV Lalou 2006	G. H. Mumm	2006	Brut	Gold
Pommery Cuvee Louise Brut	Pommery	2005	Brut	Gold
Le Sourire de Reims Brut Vintage	Champagne Abelé 1757	2009	Extra-brut	Silver
Cuvée Gold – Limited Edition	Victoire	2015	Brut	Silver
Amour de Deutz 2011	Champagne Deutz	2011	Brut	Silver
Le Clos Lanson	Champagne Lanson	2007	Brut	Silver

 

Name of Wine	Winery	Vint.	Dosage	Medal
Blanc De Blancs
£20-£30
2015 Blanc de Blancs Vintage Champagne	Aldi	2015	Brut	Silver
Blanc de Blancs	Charles de Cazanove	NV	Brut	Bronze
£30-£50
Collection Terroir – Grand Cru	Albert Lebrun	NV	Brut	Gold
Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru	Comtes de Dampierre SAS	NV	Brut	Silver
Blanc de Blancs	Chateau de Bligny	NV	Brut	Bronze
Blanc de Blancs Extra Grand Cru	Champagne Haton	NV	Brut	Bronze
£50+
Blanc de Blancs 2012	Telmont	2012	Extra-brut	Master
Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Henriot	NV	Brut	Master
Champagne Castelnau Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Castelnau	2007	Brut	Gold
Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Palmer & Co	NV	Brut	Gold
Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Ayala	2015	Extra-brut	Gold
Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel Blanc de Blancs	Piper-Heidsieck	NV	Extra-brut	Gold
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru	Champagne Collery	NV	Brut	Gold
Besserat de Bellefon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru	Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843	NV	Brut	Gold
Perrier-Jouët Blanc de Blancs	Perrier-Jouët	NV	Brut	Gold
Mumm RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2014	G. H. Mumm	2014	Brut	Gold
Blanc de Blancs 2017	Champagne Deutz	2017	Brut	Gold
Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2014	Delamotte	2014	Brut	Gold
Pommery Apanage Blanc de Blancs	Pommery	NV	Brut	Silver
Abelé 1757 Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Abelé 1757	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs	Delamotte	NV	Brut	Silver
Grand Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Gosset	NV	Brut	Silver
Le Blanc de Blancs	Champagne Lanson	NV	Brut	Bronze

 

Name of Wine	Winery	Vint.	Dosage	Medal
Blanc De Noirs
£20-£30
Collecction Terroir – Blanc de Noirs	Albert Lebrun	NV	Extra-brut	Silver
Blanc de Noirs	Charles Orban	NV	Brut	Silver
£50+
Blanc de Noirs	Grand Cru 30 HA	NV	Brut	Gold
Blanc de Noirs 2014	Telmont	2014	Extra-brut	Gold
Le Black Réserve	Champagne Lanson	NV	Brut	Gold
Besserat de Bellefon Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru	Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843	NV	Brut	Silver
Mumm RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2013	G. H. Mumm	2013	Brut	Silver
Blanc de Noirs	Champagne Palmer & Co	NV	Brut	Silver
Pommery Apanage Blanc de Noirs	Pommery	NV	Brut	Bronze

 

Name of Wine	Winery	Vint.	Dosage	Medal
Alternative Grape Varieties
£30-£50
Collection Organic Extra Brut	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	NV	Extra-brut	Bronze
£50+
Clos de Chateau – 6 Cepages	Chateau de Bligny	NV	Brut nature	Bronze

 

Rosé
£15-£20
Veuve Monsigny Rosé Champagne Brut	Aldi	NV	Brut	Bronze
£30-£50
Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé	Champagne Joseph Perrier	NV	Brut	Gold
Pommery Brut Rosé Royal	Pommery	NV	Brut	Gold
Rosé Solera	Champagne Palmer & Co	NV	Brut	Silver
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Rosé Top Brut	Heidsieck & Co Monopole	NV	Brut	Silver
Le Rosé	Champagne Lanson	NV	Brut	Silver
NV Rose Brut Grand Cru	Champagne Collery	NV	Brut	Silver
Réserve Exclusive Rosé	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	NV	Brut	Silver
£50+
Besserat de Bellefon Rosé Brut	Champagne Besserat de Bellefon depuis 1843	NV	Brut	Gold
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé	Champagne Laurent-Perrier	NV	Brut	Gold
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012	Perrier-Jouët	2012	Brut	Gold
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage	Piper-Heidsieck	NV	Brut	Silver
Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita	G. H. Mumm	NV	Brut	Silver
Rare Champagne Rosé Millésime 2012	Rare Champagne	2012	Brut	Silver
Grand Rosé	Champagne Gosset	NV	Brut	Silver
Cuvée Marguerite Rosé	Champagne Vollereaux	2012	Brut	Silver
Palmes d’Or Rosé Intense Vintage 2008	Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte	2008	Brut	Silver
Mumm Grand Cordon Rosé	G. H. Mumm	NV	Brut	Silver
Champagne Carbon Rosé	Champagne Carbon	NV	Brut	Bronze
Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé	Perrier-Jouët	NV	Brut	Bronze
Brut Rosé	Champagne Deutz	NV	Brut	Bronze
Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2013	Perrier-Jouët	2013	Brut	Bronze

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