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Unfiltered: Giuseppe Turi
From Puglia to Pimlico Road, Enoteca Turi today occupies the much-brightened Chelsea enclave once home to Tinello.
What was it like working as a sommelier at The Connaught and The Athenaeum in the 1980s?
Exciting! The economy was booming on both sides of the Atlantic and wine was becoming fashionable in English households. Both hotels attracted some of the wealthiest people on the planet and they wanted to know more about wine.
Describe your list?
Since opening the restaurant in 1990, it was my ambition to build a wine library. I am very proud of having invested in wines from producers such as: Bruno Giacosa, Angelo Gaja, Giacomo Conterno, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Masseto and Gianfranco Soldera which have become iconic. I can now list old vintages of these wines which are at their best drinking stage and offer them at a reasonable price.
Do you give preference to Puglian wines given your Puglian heritage?
I only list five Puglian wines of which four are Primitivo at different price levels.
Where is the wine stored?
As well as my own cellar I have wines stored with a number of suppliers and this year will be opening a bond account.
Why did the restaurant move from Putney to the former Tinello site in Chelsea in 2016?
Unfortunately, our lease came to an end and we were forced to move.
What has been a sublime wine match with a dish by head chef, Massimo Tagliaferri?
Calves liver with caramelised Borettane onions served with Barbera d’Alba from Luciano Sandrone. The dark berry-like fruit and fresh acidity balances the sweetness of the dish perfectly.
What does your wife and co-founder of Enoteca Turi, Pamela enjoy drinking?
Pam’s favourite wine is Barbaresco Asili from Bruno Giacosa. She has expensive tastes.
Tell us something else surprising about yourself?
My comfort food is toasted sourdough with tomato, olive oil, a sprinkle of oregano, with a glass of Valpolicella alongside.
What is the most moving piece of music you’ve ever heard?
Nessun Dorma from Puccini’s Turandot.
How would you deal with a particularly drunken guest?
I would sit next to him and tell him politely that we will have to stop serving him drinks as it will damage his health and find a way to shorten his stay.
What spirit are you particularly excited by?
I am on a journey of discovery into single malt Scotch.
What is the most beautiful vineyard you have visited?
Definitely the Benanti estate on Mount Etna where you can see small bush vines just managing to take enough nutrients from the black volcanic soil to ripen the grapes. And then you see the volcano smoking still covered in snow. This is where my fantasy vineyard would be. But demand for vineyards is so high that it remains in my imagination.
What advice would you give to an aspiring sommelier?
Try to understand why you like the wine styles and grape varieties that you do, and then try and understand the style of wines that you don’t which other people like. The role of a sommelier is to find the perfect match not just for the food but for an individual’s personal taste…
Enoteca Turi – 87 Pimlico Road, London, SW1W 8PH; 020 7730 3663; info@enotecaturi.com; enotecaturi.com
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