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The Master Winemaker 100: Kym Milne MW, Bird in Hand Winery
The drinks business recently published a guide celebrating the talent of the winemakers who have scooped the highest accolade of our Global Masters tasting series, which is judged almost exclusively by MWs. Each week we profile the winemakers behind these medal winning wines – the creatives, scientists, mavericks and dreamers who are at the pinnacle of winemaking.
Kym Milne, MW, winemaking director, Bird in Hand Winery
Milne has spent 30 years as a winemaker. He has notched up experience in Australia, New Zealand (where he was chief winemaker for Villa Maria Estate), and across Europe, South Africa and South America as a director of winemaking operations for International Wine Services. He moved back to Australia in 2003 to lead winemaking at the family-owned Bird in Hand winery in the Adelaide Hills, but also has his own winemaking consultancy.
What or who inspired you to become a winemaker?
During my gap year after school I worked a vintage for a small winery in South Australia’s Riverland to earn money to go travelling. On returning I landed a cellarhand job at Berri Estates winery and the winemakers there took the time to talk to me about winemaking as a career option. As a result I applied to change my degree from science to winemaking.
What’s your favourite part of the job?
I have always got a lot of pleasure from blending. I have always found it fascinating to put together components that on the whole are better than individually.
What’s the hardest part job?
Difficult vintages. 1988 in New Zealand when Cyclone Bola hit the East Coast of the North Island and dumped 16 inches of rain in 24 hours just as we were about to pick was one of the worst – when we could eventually get in to the flooded vineyards the botrytis was rampant.
What’s your go-to drink at the end of a long day?
If it’s a hot summer day and I’ve been doing a lot of vineyard walking, a cold beer. In winter, probably a glass of Chardonnay.
What advice would you give your younger self?
Enjoy it – it’s a great ride. Also bigger is not better: subtlety and complexity are more important. That’s a lesson learnt over time.
What was your greatest winemaking mistake?
Too many to mention. If you are not making mistakes you are not trailing enough new things.
Which wine-related achievement are you most proud of?
Passing the MW exam in 1991 at the first attempt would be right up there.
Also in 2015, Bird in Hand winning Winestate magazine’s Australian Winemaker of the Year, Australian Winery of the Year and Wine of the Year was very satisfying not just personally but for the whole Bird in Hand winemaking team. It was the first time all three awards had been won by one company.
Who is your inspiration in the wine world today?
No one person. I am fortunate to work with many talented winemakers and people both at Bird in Hand and with some other consultancy clients around the world, and I am constantly learning and inspired by them and their passion for what they do.
Where would your fantasy vineyard be?
In a cool climate, adjacent to a city. The Adelaide Hills ticks a lot of boxes.
If you weren’t a winemaker, what would you be doing and why?
International cricket commentator.
Which wine (grape/style) do you find it impossible to get along with?
There is no grape I can’t get along with, but I struggle with the recent trend of ‘natural wine’. The term is offensive as it implies other wine is not natural – Brian Croser’s article referring to the style as “accidental” wines is more accurate. The quality of much of it leaves a lot to be desired and is often not something I find appealing.
How has your taste in wine changed over your career?
Taste and style naturally change over time. From my early days of winemaking where bigger was better, I would say overall my taste has moved more toward the subtle and elegant.
Which type of wine do you drink most regularly?
I try to drink as greater variety of wine as possible. But my most regular would probably be Chardonnay.
Which wine would you most like to drink, and who would you share it with?
Good wine, with friends.
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Master medals |
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To download a copy of The Master Winemaker 100, please click here.