Uncorked: Sarah Heller MW

Sarah Heller MW, the young and dynamic wine maven, has a lot to celebrate this year. Having just welcomed her first son this year, the 29-year-old just became the latest Master of Wine in Hong Kong, following in the footsteps of Debra Meiburg MW and Jeannie Cho Lee MW.  A well-versed wine communicator, designer and consultant, Heller’s rise to obtain the much coveted title came as little surprise for the wine trade in Hong Kong after she won the 2013 Vintners’ Cup, an award given to a WSET graduate who achieved the highest aggregate mark across all units of the WSET Level 4 Diploma. Aside from attending to her own company, Heller Beverage Advisory, she is also an accomplished wine journalist for a few local and international publications. Speaking to dbHK, Heller reveals how her parents’ wine cabinet led her to an appreciation of Madeira, her unwavering love for Barolo and the best advice she has ever received.

What vintage are you?

1988: pretty good in most places but not exceptional. I have been tempted to fib and claim it’s 1989 depending on what region I’m visiting, but I’ll usually behave myself.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

Unfortunately my parents had a tendency to store some of the rather amazing wines they received as gifts in a warm cabinet for display. Thus, growing up much of the best wine I tried was generously cooked (perhaps explaining my continued predilection for Madeira!). What won me over was the first time I tasted Barolo at a wine fair — it was like burying my nose in a bouquet of roses; I’d had no idea wine could do such things.

What would you be as a wine?

Again, probably Barolo. Not an insanely traditional one with tannins that will make your tongue bleed, but still something that takes a while to soften up. Someone wise once called me “astringent” in a moment when I’m sure I thoroughly deserved it, but I think I just have slightly stern-looking eyebrows.

Where are you happiest?

At my family’s mountain home in the Cascades in Washington State — everything just feels a little brighter and cleaner up there.

What’s your greatest vice?

10 years ago I might have said shoes (at the time I measured all sums of money in pairs of heels), but now it’s something much more puerile: candy. Not sophisticated, 90% cacao bean-to-bar chocolate either: Wild Berry Skittles, Sour Patch Kids, the lot. Among the worst things possible for your palate.

Best advice you ever got?

Never treat anybody poorly just because you think you can get away with it, it always comes back to bite you.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

I think I’d leave it there for a while, since most of what I have is a bit young except the ‘88s I’ve been hoarding for my 30th next year. So ’88 Vieux Telegraphe (or possibly something from ’89 for when I pretend to turn 30 again the following year).

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business?

Best is the deep generosity that seems to be a prerequisite for professional longevity in this industry; worst is the tight margins that make that generosity so necessary.

What’s on your wine bucket list?

South Africa — still haven’t been, need to change that!

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

Borges, Kafka, Murakami (Haruki, not Takashi), P.G. Wodehouse, Douglas Adams, Woody Allen, Rick Owens, Roberta Williams, Rei Kawakubo and Jeff Bezos. Obviously we’d need a translator (and a time machine), but by midnight I think we could get a pretty amazing Exquisite Corpse going.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)?

As I’ve just had a gorgeous baby boy (my first) and, to my lingering relief and delight, passed the MW, I’m feeling rather spectacular at the moment, so I’ll go bold and say 100.

Which wine would you like to be served at your funeral?

Some fresh, delightful vin de soif from the year of my passing to demonstrate that life, invariably, goes on.