Anti ‘Texa-fornian’ wine bill causes controversy

A proposed bill aims to stop the practice of using Californian grapes to make Texan wine, a move producers fear will increase costs.

Texas state representative Jason Isaac.

House Bill 1514 states “A wine is entitled to an appellation of origin indicating the wine’s origin is this state or a geographical subdivision of this state only if: 100 percent of the wine’s volume is derived from fermented juice of grapes or other fruit grown in this state; and the wine is fully produced and finished in this state.”

The bill, proposed by state representative Jason Isaac and state senator Dawn Buckingham, will ensure that a wine that is labelled as ‘Texan’ will include only grapes that have been grown in the state.

To be certified as Texan, the state and federal wine laws currently stipulate a minimum of 75% Texan grapes. The remaining 25% can be sourced from elsewhere, but due to the relative low cost, Californian grapes are usually chosen.

According to another federal requirement, if the wine is made in one of Texas’ eight American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), and is so-labelled, it must contained a minimum of 85% grapes grown in the stated AVA.

The four major US wine regions experience stricter regulations with California, New York and Oregon requiring 100% of grapes to be state grown, while Washington specifies 95%.

Speaking at the public hearing on 24 April, Isaac said: “It is a truth-in-labeling bill designed to ensure Texas-made products are truly Texan.”

“Texas has emerged as a major wine-producing state, and this measure will preserve the integrity of the state.”

He concluded: “Brave Texans didn’t die in Alamo so that we could sip Californian wine [quoting an advertisement]. Let’s make Texas wine again. You can’t be Texan with Texa-fornian wine.”

However, as reported by Dallas News, the bill has divided state wine producers, concerns stemming from potential increased costs and supply shortfalls, caused by adverse weather conditions.

According to statistics obtained from the California Department of Food and Agriculture’s Grape Crush Report and the US Department of Agriculture, the price of Californian grapes is on average $743 per ton compared to $1,600 per ton for Texan grapes.

In addition, California dwarfs Texas in terms of area under vine and annual volume – in 2016 it produced 800 million gallons compared to just 1 million gallons in Texas, according to Pat Prendergast of Mesa Vineyards.

Speaking to Dallas News, Paul Bonarrigo, founder of the Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association, explained that climatic conditions made him resort to using a percentage of Californian grapes.

“One year we lost 30% of our Riesling grapes,” he added.

The House Bill gives vineyards five years to adapt to the changes and does include exceptions if an ‘environmental crisis’ dramatically reduces yields. A wine can still be made in Texas using Californian grapes, however, it cannot have ‘Texas’ on the label. If approved, the new ruling could come into effect on 1 September this year.