Demi-sec ‘must come from the right vintage’

Demi-sec needs to be made in vintages that are complex and mature enough to be able to stand up to the sugar according to one champion of the style.

Anne and Antoine Malassagne in their vineyards in Chouilly

Speaking to db during a lunch in London to celebrate the dual launch of its 1996 Gentilhomme Blanc de Blancs and 1996 Grand Cru Demi-Sec, Anne Malassagne, co-owner of AR Leonble in the Côtes de Blancs said:

“Demi-sec has a bad reputation as almost all of the expressions on the market are little more than bubbles. The wine needs to be mature and complex enough to compete with and balance out the sugars. Our 1996 has 32g/l of sugar but you can’t feel it.

AR Lenoble Collection Rare Demi-Sec 1996

“In order to make an interesting demi-sec the sugars need to be well integrated into the wine – if you don’t give it enough time after disgorgement then the sugar stands out.

“Our 1996 was rested for a further four years after disgorgement before release. It’s important to show consumers that demi-secs can be fresh wines for special occasions and main courses – not just desserts.”

AR Lenoble’s chef de cave, Antoine Malassagne, believes that in order to produce a high quality demi-sec you need to make it from the right vintage.

“Demi-sec is not a very trendy category at the moment but you can produce a good one if you make it from a good year with good structure and a decent amount of time in bottle after disgorgement,” he told db.

“They match really well with Asian food and spicy food. The 1996 was a great vintage to express the heights demi-sec can reach in the right year,” he added.

Only 100 bottles of AR Lenoble 1996 Grand Cru Demi-Sec have gone on sale around the world, along with 250 bottles of Cuvée Gentilhomme Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 1996, both of which are on pour at Angela Hartnett’s Murano in Mayfair.

AR Lenoble uses an average of 30% reserve wines in its blends. The house has started to release a standout older vintage from its wine library each year that has the same final number, thus the 1996 was released this year.