Bordeaux 2015: do the Mouton-Ducru boogaloo

Château Mouton Rothschild and Ducru-Beaucaillou have left it fashionably late to join the party but arrive they have.

First growth Mouton has released at €384 per bottle ex-négociant, up 60% on the 2014 opener and exactly the same as Margaux.

Described as a “classic” Mouton in the vein of the 1986 or 2010 by Neal Martin who rated it 97-99, it has also garnered mid to high 90 scores from other critics and 19 from Jancis Robinson MW.

The 2015 is clearly a step up from the 2014 when looking at the scores and is cheaper than the 2009 and 2010 although the 2005 is equally priced and has a 97-point rating from Robert Parker. Corney & Barrow’s offer said it was “not as compelling as we hoped” – Berry Bros & Rudd’s Max Lalondrelle did mention to the drinks business that he did not think other first growths should follow Margaux’s pricing.

Corney & Barrow did however heartily recommend second wine, Petit Mouton, which was also out this morning and like the grand vin stayed in step with Margaux’s Pavillon Rouge at €102 p/b.

Petit Mouton, like most of the second wines, has performed very strongly in the market of late with only the 2010 failing to give a return of over 50% from the last 10 vintages.

St Julien super second, Ducru-Beaucaillou, strutted out at a cocksure €120 p/b, 51.5% up on its 2014 price.

A 2015 with “backbone” according to Martin who scored it 94-96, broadly similar to other critics. At £1,272 per case it’s not the worst offer this campaign for buyers at that level – Cos d’Estournel at the same price didn’t get as good a score from Martin for example as did the much more expensive Palmer. On the other hand, looking at back vintages Martin scored the 2014 94-96 as well and it’s currently available at £750 a dozen, a 41% discount. The 2008 may also appeal to those looking for mature wine.

Apart from Lafite, with these releases the Left Bank is effectively wrapped up for another year.

Big name Right Banks are yet to release but will they give the party a second wind or turn up as the chairs are being cleared away?