Uncorked: Debbie Smith of 21212

Debbie Smith is head sommelier at 21212, a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms in Edinburgh steered by head chef Paul Kitching. Prior to 21212, Smith worked at The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye, Cromlix in Perthshire and Chewton Glen in Hampshire.

What Vintage are you?

1990, the third in a row of excellent Bordeaux vintages. Regarded as one of the best for Italy in modern times and superb in Champagne. Unfortunately not a general declaration for Port….

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

I was fortunate to grow up in a household where good food and wine was enjoyed regularly. My father in particular has a fondness for white Burgundy and top Bordeaux, something I clearly inherited. I still remember a glass of Tignanello enjoyed with Christmas dinner when I was six.

Ambition or talent?

I am very ambitious, but I hope that stems at least from a small flicker of talent.

What would you be as a wine?

Something weird and wonderful, or at least something a little unusual. Perhaps the fabulous Sebestyen Kadarka I’m currently serving by the glass from southern Hungary.

Where are you happiest?

In good company with a large glass of something good.

What’s your greatest vice?

Occasionally not knowing when to call it a night.

Best advice you ever got?

A guest once advised me to never call yourself an expert, or trust someone who does, as an ex is a “has been” and a spert is a dripping tap.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

My only bottle of 2002 Penfolds Grange, which was unknowingly undersold to me and has been cherished ever since. Grange is one of those wines I’d love to enjoy more often.

What’s the best thing about the wine business?

Getting to enjoy some fabulous wines and being paid for it.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points)

I rarely don’t enjoy my job so a solid 95.

Desert island vine?

Something vigorous so I’d have plenty to drink.