Five sartorial stereotypes in Bordeaux

It’s sometimes said that en primeur barrel samples are dressed up for the press, but it’s really the chateaux-owners that are making the effort to impress.

You won’t find anyone badly dressed in Bordeaux

As anyone who attends Bordeaux in April will admit, it’s hard not to be distracted by the extraneous elements to the en primeur experience – from the perfect pointing on every property, to the extensive lunchtime cheese selection, or, as we have exposed here, the proprietors’ strikingly chic appearance.

While the international visitors drag their rubber-soled shoes around the Médoc trying not to dribble on their creased clothing, those people hosting the tastings show the sort of sartorial sense and general appearance of someone possessing a team of stylists and hairdressers, not harvesters.

Now, normally such observations would simply be shared over a post-primeur pression, but as we await the serious releases of this year’s campaign, we need something to comment on.

So, while the Bordelaises’ dress sense is always impressive, there do seem to be certain sartorial stereotypes, which we’ve tried to pin down over the following pages.

However, before we start, it should be said that although certain personalities have been used to illustrate these styles, our stereotypes are entirely fictitious

1. Deliberately dishevelled

Does Hubert de Boüard take pride in looking unkempt?

They may look as though they’ve just spent a night under Saint-Emilion’s stars, before being dragged through some trellising backwards, but that turned up collar and tousled shoulder-length hair are no accident – this is the “deliberately dishevelled” look found among certain proud owners of Right Bank properties.

What’s particularly impressive is their ability to retain a shabby appearance with such expensive garments, and in the process, make scruffy appear chic.

Examples are rare, but Château Angelus’s Hubert de Boüard does, at times, appear to take pride in looking purposely unkempt, as does, to a lesser extent, Troplong-Mondot’s Xavier Pariente (below).

Xavier Pariente successfully displays a sort of shabby chic

2. Everyday glamour

Florence Cathiard combines an extravagent appearance with hands-on management

She might be on her way to a night at the Bordeaux opera, or down to the barrel room to deal with a spilt spittoon, but the look would be similarly extravagant.

As a proponent of “everyday glamour”, such a person would never consider leaving her dressing room without perfectly coiffed hair, flowing clothing and freshly-painted nails.

And even after a hard day’s work hosting wine professionals, she would retain a broad smile, revealing unstained teeth.

To find an example head to Smith-Haut-Lafitte, where Florence Cathiard combines ballroom style with hands-on management.

Of course, probably the best example of “everyday glamour” was the late Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. Having died in August last year, visitors to Mouton missed her warmth and presence during this year’s tasting.

Cathiard exemplifies “everyday glamour”

Nobody did everyday glamour quite like the late Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. Photo credit Karl Lagerfeld

3. Elegantly understated (but slightly hip)

Veronique Sanders doesn’t go in for frills, but does like brightly-coloured trousers

Less is definitely more for some in charge of a classed growth château.

Eschewing the frills that can tempt others in similarly high-profile positions, this person is most commonly seen wearing nothing more adventurous than an open neck shirt and matching trousers.

Not a crease to be seen, her look is understated, and extremely elegant.

Nevertheless, such a personality is partial to the odd brightly coloured touch, proving that she may be elegantly understated, but also slightly hip.

For those in search of such a look, both Haut-Bailly’s Veronique Sanders and Barsac’s Bérénice Lurton successfully combine a classic appearance with a trendy twist.

Those cherry red glasses prove that Bérénice Lurton likes to combine a classic appearance with a trendy twist

4. Country chic

Paul Pontalier appears particularly fond of tailored tweed. However, his son, Thibault (right), has a very different sartorial sense.

Although straying from their chateaux’s raked gravel may be a rarity, certain Bordelaises would look just as comfortable clinging to the sides of an open-back Land Rover as they would filling a Riedel with a brand new barrel sampler.

With checked cotton shirts, perhaps a touch of Viyella, and tweed on top, this person likes the rural appearance, whatever the occasion, or heights of temperature.

But don’t expect such agricultural garments to show any signs of wear – this look, complete with polished shoes and silk ties, is unashamedly “country chic”.

Although it’s easy to spot such a sartorial stereotype in the Médoc, Paul Pontalier is particularly adept when it comes to the tailored tweed – and without ever breaking sweat.

5. Euro affluence

Could Count Stephan von Neipperg be Bordeaux’s best dressed?

One could never doubt that this person combines pedigree with plenty of cash.

Whether it’s the wave of their hair, made-to-measure shoes or sheer quantity of starch in their clothing, this look conveys both money and class in a beautiful balance.

But there’s a distinctly European element too – that Nehru collar, silk cravat or brightly coloured jumper, always knotted around the neck, just wouldn’t look right on someone without an estate on the Continent.

Meeting “euro affluence” is a privilege bestowed on the few, but those able to carry off such a pristine daily appearance include Count Stephan von Neipperg or Philippe Sereys de Rothschild – as well as Haut-Brion’s Prince Robert of Luxembourg (although perhaps before he grew a beard).

A pristine appearance: Philippe Sereys de Rothschild

Haut-Brion president Prince Robert of Luxembourg before he grew a beard

And finally….

The classic gent: Anthony Barton

Although perhaps not widespread enough to merit their own entry, other possible sartorial stereotypes include the sort of “vin vogue” look sometimes found within those chateaux owned by fashion houses – perhaps best exemplified by Yquem winemaker Sandrine Garbay (pictured, bottom) – or the slightly crumpled upper crust appearance of the “classic gent”, effortlessly portrayed by Anthony Barton (left).

Of course such sartorial stereotypes are far from exhaustive and we would welcome further suggestions.

Sandrine Garbay is about as cool as they come in Bordeaux