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Vintage year ‘in every two’ in Champagne

Climate change is making it easier to produce vintage Champagne with one in every two now a vintage year according to the chef de cave of Perrier-Jouët.

Speaking to the drinks business during the release of the 2007 vintage of the house’s prestige cuvée, Belle Epoque, Hervé Deschamps said:

“Houses used to release a vintage Champagne perhaps three times a decade and now the average is one every two years. It’s easier to make vintage Champagne today than it used to be as we have less problems with spring frosts and are achieving better ripeness in the grapes.

Nuit Blanche is aimed at American clubbers

“Saying that, climate change is making conditions more irregular, so we have content with things like early bud break, which can harm the crop if the frosts hit. We’re also experiencing warmer summers, which is helping the grapes to fully ripen – 2014 will be a vintage year for Belle Epoque and Belle Epoque Rosé.

“September was very unusual, we had an Indian summer and one day it was 40°, but the wines have kept their natural acidity, which will help them to age.”

Deschamps also spoke about his dislike of using too much reserve wine in Perrier-Jouët brut non-vintage, as his top priority is freshness.

“Reserve wine is like make-up, it’s important not to use too much. I always try to respect the freshness, so I only use around 15% and never go higher than 18%,” he said.

He also spoke of the importance of making a wine he was proud with in Nuit Blanche – a Champagne aimed at US clubbers with 20g/l of residual sugar.

“It’s a sweeter wine but it’s not a syrup. When approaching it, for me it was important not to lose our signature style. There’s more to it than sugar and bubbles – you’ll find notes of pear, pineapple and grapefruit,” he said.

“It’s designed for the American market and aimed at clubbers who want something sweet but refreshing on a night out. It’s targeting younger consumers who prefer sweeter wines,” he added.

One response to “Vintage year ‘in every two’ in Champagne”

  1. Rachel says:

    Love the analogy between reserve wine and makeup – have never heard it put quite that way before. I’m happy to see the return to a higher sugar level Champagne, even it might be off the back of the sparkling Moscato trend!

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