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10 of London’s oldest restaurants

With restaurants constantly opening in London it’s easy to forget those which have long held their own in the capital’s cut-throat dining scene.

Covent Garden’s Rules opened in 1798

With many of these restaurants having served Londoners for the best part of two centuries, some near on 300, there is no mistaking their success.

From the grandeur and opulence of the Criterion Restaurant’s haute cuisine to the Golden Hind’s humble fish and chips – these stalwart’s of London’s culinary melting pot offer up not only a good plate of food, but an insight into the city’s foodie roots.

Scroll through to for a walk through some of the UK capital’s most historic eateries…

Simpsons-in-the-Strand

Opened 1828 – 185 years old

Simpson’s-in-the-Strand first opened in 1828 as a smoking room and coffee house before expanding into a restaurant. It built its reputation on serving roast meats and traditional English fare alongside an unlikely association with chess becoming the most important venue for the game during the 19th century. To avoid disturbing players’ games, waiters would serve joints of meat on silver domed trolleys at each table – a tradition which remains despite chess no longer being played at the venue. Known as one of London’s oldest English restaurants, Simpson’s has been noted in a number of films and literature including the Guns of Navarone in which David Niven reassures his companion that the first thing they will do on their return to London is go to Simpson’s and have a roast beef. While Henry Wilcox, a character in E. M. Forster’s Howard’s End, was a known regular. Famous diners include Vincent Van Gogh, Charles Dickens and George Bernard Shaw.

Simpson’s Tavern

Opened 1757 – 256 years old

Established in 1757, Simpson’s Tavern claims to be the “oldest chop house in London” and maintains its old world vibe with wooden booths and brass decor to this day. The restaurant was founded by Thomas Simpson who was gifted the venue by his father with only men allowed on the premises until 1916. Now of course it is open to all with patrons enjoying a feast of traditional British pub dishes including calves liver and bacon with onions, oxtail stew and beef and ale pie, alongside a selection of ales.

Golden Hind

Opened 1914 – 100 years old

Located on a cobbled backstreet in Marylebone the unassuming Golden Hind has been serving up plates of battered fish and chips to its in-the-know locals since 1914 and will celebrate its 100th year this year. For those choosing to chow down on site, why not enjoy a bottle of bubbly with your fish and chips? The restaurant operates a BYOB policy with just £1 corkage charged per bottle.

73 Marylebone Lane, London, W1U 2PN

Quo Vadis

Opened 1926 – 88 years old

Serving primarily modern British cuisine, Quo Vadis is part of a private club in Soho first founded by Italian Pepino Leoni in 1926. The restaraunt has changed hands several times since then with previous owners including celebrity chef Marco Pierre White and Damien Hirst. Their partnership came to an end in 2007 after a public falling out which saw White replace Hirst’s pictures in the restaurant with his own. It is currently owned by Sam and Eddie Hart – owners of Fino and Barrafina – with a menu featuring traditional fare such as smoked eel sandwich as well as veal shoulder and crab soup.

Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean St, London, W1D 3LL

The Newman Arms Pie Room

Opened 1863 – 150 years old

Built in 1730, the Fitzrovia building which houses the Newman Arms has had a chequered past being used as an ironmongers, picture framers and even a brothel before settling on its present function as a pub and pie house in 1860. For its first 100 years it only had a licence to serve beer and therefore built a reputation for its solid selection of ales – a reputation it has worked hard to maintain. Later, its owners introduced a first floor restaurant dedicated to serving home-baked pies. Previous well-known patrons include literary giant George Orwell.

23 Rathbone St, London W1T 1NG

Kettner’s

Opened 1867 – 146 years old

Kettner’s was  first opened as a restaurant in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, former chef to Napoleon III, and quickly gained a reputation for hosting the lavish parties of celebrities including Oscar Wilde, Edward VII, Lillie Langtry, Agatha Christie and Bing Crosby. Today, its kitchen is headed up by Yosef Edri who has previously worked stints at London haunts including Nobu, Fifty St James and the National Gallery. Its menu features traditional French fare with dishes including fish soup and beef bourguignon – a dish cited by Edri as his favourite dish. The restaurant’s grade II listed building boasts an all day brasserie, cocktail and Champagne bar and eight private dining rooms.

29 Romilly Street, Soho, London W1D 5HP

Criterion

Opened 1873 – 140 years old

With its glamourous setting and reputation for haute-cuIsine the Criterion Restaurant, attached to the theatre of the same name, is a London institution. Based in London’s Piccadilly Circus, it was opened in 1873 by Felix Spiers and Christopher Pond with its opulent five-level building designed by architect Thomas Verity. It boasts a marble hall and long bar on the ground floor, dining rooms on the first and second floors, a ballroom on the third and a theatre in the basement. Notable guests include Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle, who is said to have imagined the first meeting between Dr Watson and Sherlock Holmes at its bar, along with a host of others, including Royals. In the 1990s it was bought by Marco Pierre White who commissioned interior designer, David Collins to refurbish it. Today it is owned by a Georgian entrepreneur.

224 Piccadilly, London W1J 9HP

Sweetings

Opened 1889 – 124 years ago

Located in a Grade II listed building on Queen Victoria Street Sweetings has been serving up fish dishes to busy Londoners since 1889. In its 124-year history, it has been owned by six different people, a rarity among many of London’s oldest operating restaurants. Signature dishes include West Mersea Oysters, lobster salad, and smoked eel as as well as well as turbot, Cornish brill and scampi – all sourced sustainably. Its wine list is also worth a mention boasting a concise yet comprehensive list of largely French white wines available by the glass and bottle.

39 Queen Victoria Street, London, EC4N 4SA

Wiltons

Opened 1742 – 271 years old

Taking its first incarnation as a stall selling oysters, shrimps and cockles in 1742, it could be argued that Wiltons is the oldest restaurant in london. Founded by George William Wilton, it soon grew to become a fishmonger shop in 1805 with a sit-in oyster room near Trafalgar Square. However it wasn’t until 1840 that the first Wiltons seafood restaurant was opened in St James’ Ryder Street. Today it is located in Jermyn Street. Oysters and shellfish remain its primary trade alongside a glittering array of seafood, caviar. lobster and fish. Its 17-page wine list is equally impressive featuring a plethora of wines from across the world including a £3,000 bottle of Krug Clos D’Ambonnay Champagne. Arrive with deep pockets, jacket and tie.

55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX

Rules

Opened 1798 – 215 years old

Commonly cited as the oldest restaurant in London Rules in Covent Garden has been serving customers since 1798. The restaurant owns its own estate in the High Pennines where all of its game is sourced – on which it has built a solid reputation. Founded by Thomas Rule in 1798 it specialises in traditional British food including classic game, oysters, pies and puddings. In its 200 year history it has been owned by just three families, its current owners being John Mayhew, who took charge in 1984. Its previous star-studded clientele including Charles Dickens, Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, John Le Carré and Charlie Chaplin.

35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, WC2E 7LB

One response to “10 of London’s oldest restaurants”

  1. nigel wilkinson says:

    Great to see wonderful restaurants with historyJust out of interest II wonder how many are still in the same hands RSJ restaurant opened in March 1980 and is still in the same hands.

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