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Top 10 wines in the UK press
Pazo de Senorans Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain
David Williams picked out a number of wines which he felt would pair perfectly with salty foods, or which are salty in their own right, writing in The Observer this week.
He said: “Where does that salty flavour and feel come from? As with any mineral, as opposed to fruity, flavour in wine, most winemakers suggest it has its origins in particular soils. But the process by which a Mosel Riesling comes to taste of slate and salt or a Chablis of the fossil and mineral-rich kimmeridgian clay is perhaps best thought of metaphorically: a vine can’t literally suck up those flavours from the ground, but something in the soil yields wines that remind us of those elements. You’d say the same about the air in Rias Baixas in Galicia: it wouldn’t stand up to scientific analysis, but the salty twang in Pazo de Senorans’ gorgeous herby, peachy and citrussy Albarino can’t help but remind me of the sea-spray of the nearby Atlantic.”
Price: £16.95, Berry Bros & Rudd
Marks & Spencer Manzanilla Pasada, Spain NV
Another of Williams’ selections was this sherry which he said offers a “big hit of salt” and was “fresh, nimble and ready for equally salty food.”
The most reliable wines for satisfying salty cravings are the sherries made in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barremeda in Andalucia. Like the finos made in the bodegas of the nearby sherry capital Jerez, the manzanillas of Sanlucar age under a layer of yeast known as flor. But the proximity to the sea and the more humid, salty maritime air makes the flor’s growth more vigorous, and gives the wines an even more pronounced iodine tang. Made by the consistently good house of Lustau, Marks & Spencer’s Pasada has been aged a little longer than normal and offers a big hit of salt and Marmite but feels fresh, nimble and ready for equally salty seafood.
Price: £7.95, 37.5cl
Ridgeview Merret Bloomsbury 2011, Sussex, UK
Suzy Atkins, writing in The Telegraph, took a look at some of the best of British wines explaining why winemaking is now “one of the wonders of England and, yes, Wales,” with 432 commercial vineyards in England and Wales, and 124 wineries, turning out 2.58 million bottles in an average year.
Of this sparkler from Ridgeview in Sussex she said: “Always one of my favourite English wines, remarkably champagne-like, rich and very creamy, with a long, vanilla-tinged finish. Home-grown heaven.”
Price: Waitrose, £24.99, down to £19.99 until Tuesday 20 May
Jenkyn Place Brut 2009 Hampshire, UK
Another of Atkin’s favourite British sparklers was this 2009 vintage from the Hampshire-based Jenkyn Place.
She said: “From one of the new star names to look out for, this is remarkably fresh, creamy and refined, with citrus fruit, a subtle apple bite and a biscuity finish.”
Price: waitrosedirect.com, £23.99, down to £19.19 from 21 May to 10 June.
2012 Montes, Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua, Chile
Matthew Jukes, writing in the Daily Mail, picked a number of wines to pair with recipes featured in the newspapers Weekend Magazine, including this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon which was paired to meatballs.
He said: “Montes is a famous company with a great reputation and I was amazed to see a wine of this calibre from this illustrious estate at this competitive price. It’s stuffed with classy plum and blackberry fruit and the lack of oak treatment is a real bonus – drink it with the Meatball recipe!”
Price: £7.49, Tesco
2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay, L Couturier Père et Fils, France
A perfect match to a chicken kiev, this Chardonnay was described as “silky and luxurious” by Jukes.
He said: “Made from 40-year-old Chardonnay vines and aged in oak barrels for 12 months this is a beautifully appointed white with a flavour and complexity more akin to wines with a twenty pound price tag. Silky and luxurious with a wild flower nose and honeyed, pear-kissed palate this elegant white Burgundy would adore this week’s Chicken Kiev recipe!”
Price: £11.75, Wrightson & Co. tel. 01748 832 666
Masi Masianco 2012, Italy
Terry Kirby, writing in The Independent, said this Pinot Grigio would be perfect for a summer Sunday lunch packing flavours of apricots, peaches and honey.
He said: “The sometimes lightweight Italian staple Pinot Grigio is given a turbo-charged boost from semi-dried Verduzzo grapes to create a full-bodied wine of substance and power. Lingering flavours of apricots, peaches and a hint of honey, but with a long dry finish. Drink with antipasti or almost any chicken or pork dishes.”
Price: £10.92, thedrinkshop.com; £11.99, farehamwinecellar.co.uk
Allegrini Valpolicella 2013, Italy
Kirby picked another Italian wine, this “fresh and fragrant” Corvina from Valpolicella, as his “midweek meal” wine of the week.
He said: “Another modern Italian wine, but rooted in the traditions of a family business dating from the 16th century. From Corvina grapes grown near Lake Como, this is medium-bodied, fresh and fragrant, with aromas of cherries and tastes of raspberries. Just the ticket for a bowl of pasta in the garden of a warm evening.”
Price: £9.95, thewinesociety.com
Morrisons Signature Grenache, Vin De Pays D’oc 2012, France
Angela Mount, writing in the Bath Chronicle, recommended Morrison’s signature Grenache this week describing it as “bright, bouncy and full of juicy fruit”.
She said: “This is a lively, vibrant, fun, juicy red, for those who like a softer style of red wine – from southern France, it’s a delicious mix of juicy, ripe strawberries, sweet spice, heady Mediterranean herbs, and a sprinkle of black pepper.
“Soft, bright and intensely fruity, this is a great weekday red, for those of you who prefer a lighter, softer style – no harsh edges in sight, just ripe berry flavours, which will work well as a glass on its own, or with lamb chops, gammon steaks, chicken and midweek pasta dishes.”
Price: £6.99, Morrisons
Julien Sunier Régnié 2011, France
Olly Smith, writing in the Daily Mail, said it was time to take another look at “Bojo”, or Beaujolais, this week, a style made from Gamay grapes which he said has suffered from the reputation of “low-quality Beaujolais Nouveau in the Eighties”.
He said: “Bojo’ tends to be light, nimble vino that tastes of summery red fruits and works a treat after half an hour in the fridge.
“‘Beaujolais-Villages’ on the label means it’s usually a notch up from standard Beaujolais.”
Of this bottle he said: “From one of the top winegrowers in Beaujolais, thing tangy red is as bright as a cranberry channelling the sun.”
Price: £16.95