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Top 10 wines in the UK press

GD Vajra Luigi Baudana Dragon Langhe Bianco, Italy 2012

David Williams, writing in The Observer, recommended three wines “made from grape varieties that have travelled to new homes”.

He said: “All other things being equal, I’d almost always choose a wine made from a local grape variety rather than an imported international one. I like to think I’m committing a mild act of political defiance, a kind of gastronomic environmentalism, protecting the endangered species against the globalising forces of Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz et al. But I can’t always keep it up. Lately, for example, I keep coming across great wines made from that most ubiquitous of white grapes, Chardonnay, from a country with a greater stock of indigenous varieties than anywhere else, Italy. And it’s hard to feel guilty when the wine is as posied, racy and distinctive as top Barolo producer Giuseppe Vajra’s version.”

Price: £9.95, The Wine Society

Carpineto Dogajolo, IGT Toscana, Italy 2012

Another of Williams’ examples of a local wine going “global” was this Italian red which blends the local Sangiovese with the international Cabernet.

He said: “Many of the best Italian Chardonnays come from the far north – I’m thinking of Jermann’s rich, creamy but fresh and flowing Dreams (£39, greatwesternwine.co.uk) or Tesco’s poised Finest Dolimiti Chardonnay (£14.99). But the pick of the bunch is arguably from further south – Tuscan producer Querciabella’s stunning, Burgundian Batar 2011, a 50-50 blend with Pinot Bianco. The same producer pulls off a similar trick with its reds, making exquisitely silky reds from the local Sangiovese (in its Chianti Classico) and international Merlot (Palafreno). None of these wines come cheap (see armitwines.co.uk), but the more affordable Tuscan blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet from Carpineto also shows how a dose of the international need not compromise local character.”

Price: £11.49, or £9.76 if you buy two bottles, Majestic

Villa Wolf Gewürztraminer 2012, Germany

Olly Smith, writing in the Daily Mail, explored the wines of Alsace which he said was the “heartland of the world’s most alluring Gewurztraminers.”

He said: “Some grapes can be hard to love. Take Gewürztraminer, which can be so heavily scented that it feels like a bombardment of lychees from a cannonade stationed in a rose bush.

“Some bottles are so boozy as to knock you unconscious just by reading the label, and others are so sweet as to detonate an international sugar rush that rampages and spreads like an unstoppable eruption of sweeties from the heart of Willy Wonka’s factory. For its outrageous unpredictability and unmistakability, I love the stuff.”

Of this German Riesling, the variety’s homeland, Smith said: “Tubo-charged with exotic flair imagine a mango eloping with a guava and you’e pretty much got this top notch vino.”

Price: £8.49

2012 Villa Maria Pinot Noir Private Bin, Marlborough

Hamish Anderson, writing in The Telegraph, picked three of his favourite New Zealand Pinot Noirs from under a tenner to £30.

Of this mid-range wine from Villa Maria he said: “Considering the volume it makes, it is impressive that Villa Maria can produce such a fine range from this demanding grape. This is mid-weight, with flavours of black cherry and a savoury side. In summer these wines benefit from being served cool (at 14C) rather than at room temperature.”

Price: £12.99, Co-op

2012 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough

Anderson’s top of the range pick was this £28 Pinot Noir from Marlborough.

He said: “Cloudy Bay and Marlborough are synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc, yet both the producer’s and the region’s trump card is, I think, Pinot. This great, young (it got into its stride after three days open) bottle hits you with damson fruit and a grip of tannin before its pretty aromatics hint at what is to come.”

Price: £28.50, Majestic

2013 Tesco White Burgundy, France

Matthew Jukes, writing in the Daily Mail, recommended this “brilliantly balanced” Burgundy from Tesco.

He said: “There are so many cheap white Burgundies out there dumbing down this iconic style of Chardonnay from the greatest wine region in the world, but this isn’t one of them. This newly released, brilliantly balanced white is sensational. See for yourself. PS – this is not Tesco *finest White Burgundy, which is another good wine – it is the straight Tesco White Burgundy and there seems to be some confusion at Tesco about the price of this wine. They told me it was £6.99, but told Weekend it was £7.49! Who knows!”

Price: £7.49, Tesco

NV Langham Wine Estate, Classic Cuvée Brut, Dorset

Another of Juke’s top picks of the week was this “effortlessly classy” inaugural release from the Dorset-based Langham Wine Estate.

He said: “This is the inaugural release from Langham (the wine is actually from the 2010 vintage) and it is made from the three classic Champagne grape varieties and then aged for two years in the bottle. It is an effortlessly classy wine with fine bubbles a touch of fresh-baked bread and citrus on the nose and an uplifting finish. It’s great value, too.”

Price: £22, langhamwine.co.uk

Charles Baur, Alsace Pinot Blanc 2011, France

Tom Cannavan, writing in the Huffington Post, picked this Pinot Blanc wine from a small, family owned domain of Charles Baur, which he said was both “delightful” and “characterful”.

He said: “The nose offers a glimpse of exotic fruit, of mango and lychee, but a certain citrus brightness of orange and lime too. In the mouth it has a bit of weight and texture with 13% alcohol, but it remains very fresh and clean, again hinting at exotic, lightly smoky qualities, but really focused on the crispness and clarity of its line of fruit and acidity. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.”

Price:£12.95, Ten Acre Wines (ten-acre.com) – 10% off this and all wines from Charles Baur until the end of May 2014. Quote baur10 at checkout.

2012 Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir, Tasmania

Anthony Rose, writing in The Independent, picked three wines for the weekend starting with this “dinner party” Pinot Noir from Tasmania.

He said: “With its berry-like perfume, this could be from Burgundy’s Savigny-lès-Beaune, only there’s more opulent spice and fruit.”

Price: £13 to 15

2012 Cloudy Bay Te Koko, Marlborough, New Zealand

If you are looking to splash out on a wine, Rose recommended this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, priced at £30.

He said: “The Graves-style brother to New Zealand’s iconic sauvignon. The fresh herb and gooseberry qualities here are intense and have a creamy richness.”

Price: Around £30

 

One response to “Top 10 wines in the UK press”

  1. DC says:

    Ironically he might have found the Dragon ‘poised, racy & distinctive’ because it does have the indigenous Nascetta in it, plus Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, as Jancis Robinson pointed out when it was her wine of the week back on 4th April.

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