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Top 10 wines in the US press

Eric Asimov recommends a Spanish white with “fruit flavours that resounded long after the sip was gone”, while Jon Bonné picks out a wine that is “a reminder of Zin’s pure pleasures”.

Writing in the New York Times, Asimov heads a tasting panel which reviews Spanish Albariño. He wrote: Back in the dark ages of the early 1980s, the notion of seeking out a Spanish white would never have occurred to most people. Spain, like Italy, was known for reds. Sherry might have come to mind, an indicator of the barren selection.

“Yet Spain is a trove of modern whites now, made from distinctive Spanish grapes like Godello, Verdejo, Treixadura and, of course, Albariño.

He added: “If the first three grapes haven’t yet gained traction in the United States, Albariño has become as much a brand name for Spanish whites as Pinot Grigio has for Italian.”

Meanwhile in the San Francisco Chronicle, Bonné wrote that “these are wonderful, if precarious, times for Zinfandel.”

He added: “The grape is being taken with a new level of seriousness nowadays, given a boost because its noble history – Tribidrag! – is now evident, but more particularly because a proud roster of Californians has decided that if the grape isn’t reclaimed from the Big Flavour partisans, the opportunity to put it back into serious discussion will be lost.

“The best of the 2011s are lovely – aromatic, brightly flavoured wines reminiscent of how Zinfandel was made in the days before it became a pawn in the culture wars. If it was a struggle to ripen fruit, and wrangle acidity, this year was a reminder that when grown to reasonable ripeness, Zin can show more than ample amounts of both.”

Click through the following pages to find out more about the wines recommended by these and other writers in the US press over the last week.

Las Colinas del Ebro Garnatxa Blanca 2012

Writing in the Washington Post, Dave MacIntyre recommended this wine, writing that “this is one of the best inexpensive white wines I’ve tasted this year.”

He added: “Focused and mineral, with chalky talc flavours to balance the quince and pear fruit. It might not be the best wine for just sipping; have it with salty appetisers or tapas instead. Olives and anchovies should make it shine.”

Thunevin-Calvet, Cuvée Constance 2008

MacIntyre also picked out this wine for his readers, writing: “A 50-50 blend of Grenache and Carignan, it shows southern France at its best, with scents and flavours of thyme, lavender and roast beef.

“I recommend opening it a few hours before dinner or decanting it to allow the flavours to develop; otherwise, stock up and let it age for a year or two in your cellar.

2011 Jean Foillard Morgon ‘Côte du Py’

Irene Virbila, in the LA Times, tells her readers that she could “drink a bottle of this Morgon “Côte du Py” from Jean Foillard every week with the greatest of pleasure.”

She added: “How beautiful is the bottle, with its red wax seal? The wine itself is soft and unctuous, tasting of prunes and dried cherries, a voluptuous cru Beaujolais made with painstaking care. The organically farmed vines from the famed “Côte du Py” range from 10 all the way up to 90 years of age. This is a very serious Gamay. It’s beautiful with grilled sausages, stews, a simple roast chicken or duck.”

2011 Rodney Strong Vineyards Pinot Noir

In the Miami Herald, Fred Tasker takes his readers through aged Pinot Noir. He wrote: “With age, Pinot Noir can develop that elusive characteristic called ‘umami’ — the fifth flavour element that has joined sweet, sour, bitter and salty among hedonists. Defined by some as ‘savoury,’ by others as ‘yummy,’ umami is found in roast meats, sautéed mushrooms, truffle oil and Parmesan cheese.”

In reviewing this wine, it came as “highly recommended”, Tasker write it had: “a hint of oak, black plum and blueberry flavours, smooth, long finish”.

Geyser Peak Pinot Grigio 2012

Sandra Silfven, writing in the Detroit News, recommended this wine, describing it as “dry, aromatic, layers and layers of flavour.”

She added: “Winemaker Ondine Chattan sources this variety from cool and warm climates to increase the complexity. Cooler vineyards pack the acidic punch for this vintage — providing the racy acidity, minerality and floral tones. Warmer regions give it tropical fruit and weight. The minerality and tart citrus fruit load the back palate and finish. It’s an ideal wine for hors d’oeuvres or to pour with fresh seafood. It’s very different, with a pleasing bite in the finish that I especially like.”

Forja Del Salnés, Rías Baixas Albariño Leirana 2011

Eric Asimov’s tasting panel in the New York Times, rated this as the number one Albariño of the ones they tried. Asimov wrote: “Our overall favourites, the 2011 Leirana from Forja del Salnés and the 2011 Etiqueta Ámbar from Granbazán, were clearly a step above the others. The Leirana had deep, true mineral and fruit flavours that resounded long after the sip was gone.”

He added that this wine was “complex and textured with mineral, citrus and tropical fruit flavours.”

Granbazán, Rías Baixas Albariño Etiqueta Ámbar 2011

In ranking this as the second favourite of his tasting panel, Asimov wrote that “the Ámbar was aromatic, steely and complex. It was also our best value at $22.”

In reviewing the wine he added that it was “deep, aromatic and steely, with lingering, complex flavours of spice and citrus.”

Fonseca 2011

In the Wall Street Journal, Will Lyons took a look at Port and wrote that “this is a sublime wine.”

Lyons added: “Intense inky black with a slight purple hue, it sits in the glass with a brooding power. The nose is redolent of dark stone fruit and blackcurrant. Once sipped, there is a pang of intensity as this wine reveals itself. The after taste is long and intense. Quite simply, my wine of the vintage.”

2011 Broc Cellars Vine Starr Sonoma County Zinfandel

This is one of the Zinfandel’s recommended by Jon Bonné in the San Francisco Chronicle. He wrote: “Chris Brockway is now labelling Vine Starr as Zinfandel – a worthy move, as this blend of two sites, Arrowhead Mountain in Sonoma Valley and Buck Hill in Russian River Valley, is testament to the grape’s wonders in both areas. A reminder of Zin’s pure pleasures – with balsam, sage aromas, boysenberry and fresh plum, and a charcoal-like mineral aspect. A tribute to the grape’s more contemplative side.”

Robert Hall, Paso Robles, Rosé de Robles 2012

Writing in the Dallas Morning News, Rebecca Murphy picked out this wine. She wrote: “It’s a blend of several grapes that come together in a lip-smacking fusion of strawberry, cherry, berry and orange zest flavours. Medium bodied, round in the mouth and velvety smooth, this rosé is sure to shine with barbecued chicken or with a taco salad.”

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