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Top 10 wines in the UK press
Victoria Moore reveals “the best English Pinot Noir” she has ever tasted, while Matthew Jukes tells us what is, “one of the most exciting white wines that you can find for a fiver.”
Jancis Robinson, writing in the Financial Times, took on the process of matching food with wine, initially she declared that she thought, “in some cases the wines have been chosen because they look as though they might work, or because certain bottles are already open.”
Robinson went on to acknowledge François Chartier of Quebec and his work in matching food and drink. She wrote: “The idea is that he identifies the dominant aromatic molecules in various wines and foodstuffs and matches them up. Sauvignon Blanc, mint and parsley are all long on anise flavours, so, with a couple of circles on a blackboard, the engaging Chartier is able to suggest Sauvignon as a suitable accompaniment to tabbouleh, the fragrant Middle Eastern salad.”
In the Sunday Times Jane MacQuitty responded to two readers, who wrote to her about bulk bottling in the UK. MacQuitty wrote: “What few wine drinkers will realise is how massive the bulk-wine business is. This year, 66% of South Africa’s wine exports to the UK will be bottled here, with 80% of Australia’s and almost 50% of New Zealand’s. That includes most of the offerings from the big New World brands such as Jacob’s Creek, Oyster Bay and Blossom Hill.
“Increasingly, you’ll find wines from France, Italy and Spain arriving in a similar manner too.”
In terms of the wines themselves, MacQuitty was not hugely impressed by what was on offer from bulk-bottling, writing, “few were faulty, but most were so jaw-breakingly dull that I for one would not want to waste a fiver on them.”
But which wines did MacQuitty recommend? Look through these pages to find out.
2012 De Bortoli DB Pinot Grigio (£5.49 until October 30, Waitrose)
Jane MacQuitty in the Sunday Times, said this was a, “light, lively Aussie wine with enough fragrant aniseed and apple fruit, and a modest 11.7% alcohol content, to make it a good all-purpose winter white.”
2011 Viña Fuerte Old Vine Garnacha (£5.99 until October 30, Waitrose)
MacQuitty also recommended this wine, saying it is a, “cracking red from northern Spain made from old, low-yielding garnacha, bursting with gorgeous, fat, velvety, smoky, spiced forest-fruit flavours.”
2003 Torres, Mas La Plana (£35)
Jancis Robinson, writing in the Financial Times, picked out this red wine, she said: “After an abortive tangle with a blowtorch and a red pepper, François Chartier tactfully served Torres, Mas La Plana 2003 Penedes, a top-quality Catalan Cabernet made by his hosts, with a juicy tataki of beef, red pepper purée and sesame oil. All for very sound scientific reasons.
2011 El Tesoro, Monastrell/Shiraz (£4.95, The Wine Society)
Matthew Jukes picked out this Spanish red for his column in the Daily Mail, he said: “Autumnal cooking demands hearty, no-nonsense reds to glug alongside. Even better if these, robust heart-warming fellows give you some change from a fiver. Meet El Tesoro – a brilliant, chunky, black-fruit-stuffed hero”
2011 First Cape, President’s Selection Chenin Blanc (£8.29, reduced to £5.49 until 30 October, Waitrose).
Jukes also mentioned this white wine, he wrote, “with hints of pineapple, honey and green apple and a lovely, long, languid finish, this is one of the most exciting white wines that you can find for a fiver.”
2011 Vermentino Domaine les Yeuses (£6.95)
Meanwhile in the Mail on Sunday, Olly Smith was impressed with this wine, writing, “this is an invigorating, zingy white at a fantastic price. Bright, fresh and irresistible, it’s nothing short of a marvel in a bottle”.
2009 Bertrand Stehelin, Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet (£9.35, Jascots)
David Williams, in The Observer, chose to recommend a French red wine, he said: “A traditional blend of Syrah and Grenache, it’s full of the classic hedgerow fruit and subtle savoury flavours of the region, but has an extra level of flavour and drinkability.
2011 Minarete Ribera del Duero (£5.49, Aldi)
Fiona Beckett, in The Guardian, was impressed with this wine, saying, “the ridiculously well-priced Minarete Ribera del Duero 2011, would make brilliant winter drinking with gutsy stews and casseroles.”
201 1 Bolney Estate Foxhole Vineyard Pinot Noir (£15.95, winedirect.co.uk)
In the Daily Telegraph, Victoria Moore described this wine as, “the best still English pinot noir I have yet tasted. Fragrant, faintly hedgerowish, bright and tart like damsons are tart even when they’ve been sweetened, with lovely berry fruit.”
2011 Old Vines Grenache Noir (£7.99 Marks & Spencer)
Finally in the Independent, Terry Kirby made a recommendation for this wine with a midweek meal, he wrote, “rich and ripe, but still retaining plenty of fresh fruit flavour and a good match for any kind of grilled meats, particularly lamb.”
I agree. I’m shocked by how large the bulk wine business is. We deal with several companies that ship enormous amounts of wine to the UK. Some organizations market exclusively to the UK. What’s even more staggering is China. If you take a look at that market for instance, which is 26 UK’s put together, bulk wine buying as large as it is, is still in it’s infancy.
Patrick
www.winepine.com
As someone who was at the business end of UK bottling for 7-8 years I’m not in the last bit surprised how much wine is shipped here in bulk! I would take issue with Jane MacQ in terms of generic quality statements. From my experience, and working with committed and passionate winemakers and bottlers here and abroad, is it simply wrong to tar all UK bottled wines with the same ‘questionable quality’ brush. While there are ‘some’ UK bottled wines that are ‘poor quality’ (and I’ve tasted many of them over the years) I suggest that is because they started out that way in the country of origin. There can be occasional ‘batch’ issues, just as with wines bottled at source. Well made and well selected wines, suitably prepared for bulk shipment, shipped in bulk and bottled in the UK correctly are absolutely fine and no different from comparable specification ‘shipped in bottle’ wines.
I don’t want to overplay the environmental card, but one 40 foot bulk container equates to shipping two 80 foot containers of bottled product, be that by road, rail or sea!