This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.
News
Oregon highlights Kiwi shortcomings
Oregon Pinot Noir could pose a challenge for New Zealand’s success with this variety in the UK, suggested Jason Haynes, director of Burgundy specialist Flint Wines.
“It certainly feels in the UK that the New Zealand bubble has burst,” Haynes told the drinks business at a tasting last month as part of the International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville, Oregon.
In his view of New Zealand at the moment, “Outside the top one or two guys there’s quite a generic taste to the wines. They’re not jammy, but they really are struggling from young vines – the wines are fruity and pretty but not much more than that and they’re quite expensive.”
By contrast, Haynes said of the 36 Oregon wineries on show at this year’s IPNC, “I don’t see that so much here.”
Flint Wines currently represents Cristom, which is based in the Eola-Amity Hills, with Haynes confirming he would consider expanding this Oregon portfolio “if the right thing came along.”
However, he remarked that with a standard entry level of around US$17, it was difficult to see the wines appearing on UK restaurant lists for much less than £50. “The margins don’t help,” added Haynes.
As for the lower profile of Oregon Pinot Noir in the UK compared to that of New Zealand, Haynes suggested: “I don’t think there’s resistance, I just don’t think they’re known. It’s a shame – they’re good with food and the alcohol levels in general seem quite sensible.”
However, in terms of Oregon’s ability to compete with Burgundy at more everyday drinking prices, Haynes emphasised the impressive value offered by the French region’s lower tier.
“Burgundy’s quality at the Bourgogne Rouge level has never been as high as it is now,” he maintained.
You know New Zealand is good when experts start trying to down play New Zealand wines. It is an honour for both the Burgundy and Oregon wine growing regions to be compared to New Zealand – GO KIWI’S!
There is no mention of Kiwi wine regions here? The guy said, “Outside the top one or two guys there’s quite a generic taste to the wines. They’re not jammy, but they really are struggling from young vines – the wines are fruity and pretty but not much more than that and they’re quite expensive.”
There is something called damning by faint praise in UK. If Matt thinks this is a good thing, let him dream on.
Although unsaid, the Britts have always considered NZ and Oz as their vinous colonial New World outposts. The fact the market has crumbled suggests either a drop in price to quality ratio from the colonials or abject boredom with Kiwi style.
Rather than blame young vines, I’d blame formulaic winemaking and pig ignorance of what great wine is on about.
until Oregon can produce bright, juicy and vibrant Pinot Noir that Merchants can sell for between £12-20 then repeat that feat for multiple vintages it has no chance of competing with brand N.Z.
Rare to choose a £15 Bourgogne Rouge instead of something from the New World
I was at IPNC too. I found the Pinot Noirs from NZ at the event (Central Otago, Martinborough, and Marlborough) difficult to sandwich between tastings of Oregon, Cali, and Burgs. The NZ wines displayed brighter fruit when compared to plush, ripe 2009 Burgs and massive and tight Oregon PN. In this context the NZ wines will stick out and not be judged on their merits. I think this critic is being quite harsh.