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Vinho Verde producers pin hopes on Alvarinho
Plantings of Alvarinho are on the rise in northern Portugal as producers seek to boost both value and quality in their wines as the variety gains increasing international recognition.
Many producers feel that Alvarinho could become a leading Portuguese variety and are keen to cash in on any future success but there is some tension that only those styles grown in the sub-region of Monção and Melgaço are allowed to be classified as Vinho Verde wines.
Any Alvarinho planted elsewhere in the region must instead be labelled as Vinho Regional do Minho but even the executive president of the Commisão de Viticultura do Região dos Vinhos Verdes (CVRR), Manuel Pinheiro, admitted that this was a situation that may require change.
“But these things take time,” he added.
In the meantime, though, producers are finding out the differences Alvarinho shows up when planted in other different sub-regions.
Antonio Sousa, a winemaker at numerous estates including Solar Serrade, thinks those differences are marked and added, “it could become a recognised Portuguese grape”.
Luís Cerdeira, who runs Quinta do Soalheira in Melgaço, said that for now production still lagged behind that of Spain but, “the national image is high and internationally it is growing too.
“Of course Spain is bigger (some 200 producers to 50 in Monção and Melgaço) and in the US they pronounce Albariño better than Alvarinho but it depends on the market. In Brazil it is very well known.”
Alvarinho also bucks the perception that Vinho Verde must be drunk young, with Cerdeira among others saying that 2001 is drinking wonderfully at present and older vintages are equally capable of longevity.
Of course, with greater quality, complexity and age worthiness come higher prices, another trait that goes against the traditional view of Vinho Verde as cheap, relatively straightforward and accessible.
The growing number of plantings are linked to this but there are already some fears that too many growers cashing in may dilute that quality image.
Miguel Pereira de Abreu, sales manager of Quinta de Carapeços, said: “We’re already seeing producers selling bad Alvarinho at a low price.
“The danger is that it will become a common grape variety not a value one.”
For a more in-depth look at Vinho Verde’s way forward in the UK market, see July’s issue of the drinks business.
Absolutely agree that Alvarinho is a major, world-class grape and could possibly transcend its regional Denominaço. Galicia solved the problem in 1980 by creating the Denominación Específica Albariño, thereby encouraging growers to replant with the variety to get a better price. In Portugal’s case quality is not the issue – communication is. I don’t see the problem in labelling the wine Vinho Regional do Minho (few consumers understand the regulations anyway), what’s important is that the word ALVARINHO is most prominent on the label. Simples!.
John has it spot on, but I would go further. The problem for Vinho Verde is that it has an extremely confused message. Is it dry or sweet? Fizzy or still? in Bordeaux, Burgundy or cantil bottle (or other)? Cheap or pricey? Minerally or or sherbetty? estate bottled or cooperative?
For the ordinary wine buyer Vinho Verde is a minefield and it is not surprising that many avoid it. Alvarinho has the advantage of being made in a broadly similar style (dry, still, mineral, high quality). This is the message that Rias Baixas have spent ten years getting across. For Portuguese Alvarinho, the horse may already have bolted – but let’s keep the faith and hope that it can carve its own niche.
Moreover it may be a DISADVANTAGE to associate Alvarinho with Vinho Verde for the reasons stated above. The grape name is the most important message. There may be life for some of the other varieties. Loureiro makes very smart wine ALMOST the quality of Alvarinho, while cropping twice as heavily bringing economies in production costs. And why not Trajadura too? There are some very smart single varietal Treixaduras north of the Minho.