db Eats: Blue Elephant

Indian may have been appointed our national dish and the UK’s high streets are teeming with Chinese and Thai restaurants, but few of these venues would even pretend that their drinks list was designed to entice.

For the most part, it matters little: lager and curry has a loyal following. But what about those special occasions, the birthdays and anniversary dinners? That lamb bhuna and pint of Cobra might not be quite the weaponry you need to charm a date.

There are, however, a few restaurants in this so-called “ethnic” bracket which offer an exotically upmarket alternative to the failsafe Italian or French fallbacks. At the very top end are the Michelin-garlanded likes of Hakkasan or Benares, but for those in search of a less starry option, Blue Elephant is proving that there is a middle way.

Recently relocated from bustling Fulham Broadway to the more spacious, if less buzzing riverside location of Imperial Wharf, this south-west London link in an international chain is looking to entice its former regulars away from more convenient options with a more leisurely ambience and revamped menu.

Themed around dishes representing Thailand’s past, present and “future” cuisine, the latter representing the chef’s own creative licence, the menu is extensive to the point of bewilderment. Struck down by this paralysis of choice, we took the eatch all option of the £55 tasting menu.

Perhaps our indecision was intensified by the ginger martinis, which arrived in heavyweight glassware with a mood lifting bright pink floral garnish. They could have benefited from a slightly more vigorous stir: the first few sips were full of zesty ginger but devoid of any kick, while the final sips were distinctly fierce.

Maybe it had the advantage of arriving first, but an egg cup-sized amuse bouche of delicately flavoured coconut-based soup was a real highlight of the meal.

My fears that Blue Elephant’s wine list would inspire me to drink beer were swept aside as my eyes lighted on a special Josmeyer “Cuvée Royale Thai” house wine option. For the more adventurously open-minded the list is headed by a selection of Thailand’s own Monsoon Valley wines.

Tempted as I was to find out what the Pok Dum grape variety has to offer, the reliable indulgence of Christophe Ehrhart’s wines – a few pages in lay a dedicated section on this biodynamic Alsatian flagship – proved an irresistible draw.

Alsace may be the closest vinous option to a classic match for Thai food, but the list unveiled plenty of further options for wine lovers and wine snobs alike. Alongside plenty of names which have passed into the mainstream luxury brand lexicon were a diverse but not overwhelming selection of engaging producers such as Dagueneau and Au Bon Climat.

As a further sign that someone with more than a passing interest in wine had taken charge of the list, there were nods to fashionably obscure varieties such as Falanghina, Nero D’Avola and a smattering of Beaujolais Gamay to choose from.

Sadly, while the list is riddled with interesting options, the otherwise highly charming, knowledgeable and efficient front of house team were ill equipped to guide less hardened wine geeks towards these gems.

Despite his enthusiastic response when I mentioned the Josmeyer, our waiter confessed he didn’t know anything about the wines himself and was politely embarrassed to be offered a taste from our bottle. Not that we had any problem in polishing off the vivaciously clean Riesling Le Dragon 2006 – rather than the 2007 indicated on the list, an inconsequential but further telling sign that the wine expertise here is out-sourced.

While the wine was easy to keep track of, our food flowed in a torrent of flavours which left us struggling happily to keep up. Less obviously authentic dishes such as foie gras and lobster arrived beautifully cooked with twists of Thai flavouring.

We gave up trying to match the right sauce to its allocated parcel of food, wading into a mysterious array of juicy marinated chicken, swiftly followed by well seasoned, finely spiced mouthfuls of minced pork, and prawns.

By the time the lamb shank arrived, falling obligingly from the bone into its turmeric-laced coconut milk bath, we were flagging. Rallied by the refreshing power of Riesling, we assaulted some “drunken” slices of rib-eye steak in their spicy sauce but admitted defeat when it came to the bulk of fragrantly steamed wild rice. 

The allure of a ginger crème brulée tempted us back for one final assault of creamy, crunchy, gingernut biscuit indulgence before we pushed back with a digestive pot of mint tea.

Imperial Wharf may be a slightly soulless development, but throw in some summer weather and Blue Elephant’s new location has obvious appeal for evening cocktails by the Thames.

As for its ability to serve those special occasions, a man on the other side of the restaurant was busy proposing to his girlfriend on the night of our visit. Her reply offered strong evidence that Blue Elephant has what it takes.

Blue Elephant

The Boulevard,

Imperial Wharf
 Townmead Road

London,

SW6 2UB

Tel: +44 (0)20 7751 3111

www.blueelephant.com