German wines take the plaudits

The 2009 German vintage has been hailed by producers and trade alike as “one of the best of the decade”.

Speaking to the drinks business, Iris Ellmann, managing director of The Winebarn, said that more often than not the 2009s were the “perfect example of a perfect Riesling”.

“The most important thing is balance and elegance,” she continued. “Across the board it was perfect in 2009. The fruit is delicious.”

Walter Bibo, managing director of Schloss Reinhartshausen, said: “The year was one of the best of the last decade. Very approachable now but with the potential to age for many years.”

Gunther Hauck, managing director of Dr von Bassermann-Jordan, was one of several producers at The Winebarn tasting who talked of the mineral qualities of the vintage and its clean and direct characteristics.

However, Ellmann lamented that, despite the overall quality of the vintage, it was still not easy to sell German wines.

She reported that The Winebarn’s off-trade sales had fallen 35% last year. In the end one just had to “adapt”, she concluded.

“It was a good year despite its challenges, we just had to be flexible and ‘go with the flow’. If clients wanted oddly mixed cases we said, ‘ok’.”

On the other hand, she said demand from regular German wine drinkers was as strong as ever and calls for the Erstes and Grosses Gewächs wines were particularly strong.

Rupert Millar, 20.01.2011