Wonderful reds from Loire in 2009

The quality and value of Loire Valley 2009 reds has been confirmed from all corners of the trade, highlighted especially by Justerini and Brooks last week.

The London merchant described it as “a wonderful red vintage”, with “glorious Pinot Noirs” and “very ripe Cabernet Franc,” adding that the latter grape variety displays the “intensity of 2005” but with more elegance.

News of the high-quality vintage was reported by the drinks business back in May when international wine consultant Sam Harrop MW, who has been heading up Project Cabernet Franc for InterLoire, was interview by dbTV.

“2009 all over Europe is great but in the Loire the Cabernet Franc is the greatest vintage I’ve ever seen,” he said.

“It was very warm and the driest August since 1961; the véraison process and ripening was perfect, and as a result you are getting wines at 13% abv – and that’s high for the Loire – but showing no jamminess.”

Elaborating on the qualities of the wines from this vintage, he said: “There’s still freshness, there’s perfume, there’s ripeness, there’s definition and wonderful soft tannins.”

Considering the whites, Justerini & Brooks described the wines as “are concentrated, lush and rich”, and noted that hail in Sancerre had reduced the crop by half in some vineyards.

Notably generous Sancerres were made by François Cotat with – it should be stressed – an imperceptible 15% abv, although this producer is renowned for a rich style using late harvested grapes and natural yeasts.

The 2009 Loire Valley reds have been heralded along with the 2003, 2005, and 2008 vintages.

Patrick Schmitt, 02.12.2010