You can have 09, but you must take 08, 07 and 06 too

The Bordelais need people to buy. Below the level of the 50-60 most popular names the châteaux may have stocks in their cellars of 2008s, 2007s, 2006s and even older wines: maybe even 2002s and 2001s.

Some négociants are being told that if they want to buy 2009s they’ll have to take some older stock as well – stock that they might find very hard to shift. "It’s the first time that has happened," said one négociant.

So a lot of Bordeaux is not going to go up in price this year. The first growths are a different world: they’ve made great wines and they reckon everybody is going to want them.

But many châteaux outside the top 50 or so will be delighted just to sell out of 2009s. It’s a thing they haven’t done for a few years now, and the prospect is putting a spring in their step.

But they know that if they want to sell out it’ll be no good putting their prices up very much. Instead it could be a terrific opportunity to introduce new consumers to Bordeaux.

It’s a vintage that combines ageability with, at the lower end, immediate fruit and, unless the pound sinks without trace, there’ll be some good buys out there.

Margaret Rand, reporting from Bordeaux, 01.04.2010