Kiwi alliance to push premium wines

A collection of boutique wine producers in New Zealand have clubbed together to form an alliance to promote the country’s premium wine offerings.

The Specialist Winegrowers of New Zealand, which consists of five top-end wineries specialising in one single variety or style, is aiming to raise the profile of the nation’s fine wines and distance themselves from the country’s Sauvignon Blanc-centric reputation.

Sparkling wine specialist No 1 Family Estate In Marlborough is joined in the group by Syrah specialist The Hay Paddock, Waiheke Island’s Destiny Bay, Gewurztraminer experts Vinoptima and Pinot Noir specialists Wooing Tree of Central Otago.

The move to exclude Sauvignon Blanc producers has echoes of Australia’s First Families of Wine’s decision to try to reverse perceptions that Australia only produces cheap, commercial, sunshine-in-a-bottle wines by promoting the country’s premium and super-premium wines.

The group, however, claims that very few producers actually specialise solely in Sauvignon Blanc production and as such would not fit into the “boutique winery” criteria through which it is seeking membership.

David Cox, Europe director at New Zealand Wine Growers, expressed his surprise at the drive to marginalise Sauvignon Blanc.

“This is an interesting development and any initiative that enhances further the premium positioning of New Zealand wines is to be welcomed," he said.

"This collection of Specialist Winegrowers represents a particularly fine group of super-premium wineries and together they speak volumes about where NZ wine is currently.

"It must be said, however, that in my markets in the UK and Europe, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc generically continues to be positioned at a premium level, despite some recent pricing activity, and is enhancing the image of NZ rather than hindering it.” 

The group launches on 9 March and is hoping to recruit new members among Riesling and Chardonnay producers in time.

News of the push by New Zealand wineries to shed the Sauvignon Blanc image comes just a week after the country’s biggest winemaker, Montana, unveiled plans to take New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to the next level through its Icon Project.

Meanwhile wine writer Oz Clarke has denied reports that he expects New Zealand to adopt an appellation system similar to that in Burgundy.

Decanter.com had quoted Clarke as saying: "New Zealand is entering into the next stage of its development in contemplating and legally recognising its terroirs."

But Cox, speaking from New Zealand, told the drinks business: "While Oz has been here, he has claimed that he was misquoted on the appellation story and he does not feel this is a workable, nor desirable, proposition and he is right.

"New Zealand is making terrific progress in its regional diversity and the recognition of ‘place’ and the benefits of vineyard sites, but such a tight appellation system could be too constrictive."

Alan Lodge, 27.01.2010