Barrica taps into tapas trend

London’s army of tapas fans can welcome a new member to the fold with the opening of Barrica on Goodge Street.

Just a short walk from established big names Fino, Tierra Brindisa and Barrafina, not to mention Iberica, which opened last year, Barrica promises an “authentic and affordable” tapas experience, backed by a skilled team.

The kitchen is headed up by James Knight, formerly of Moro, who is supported by Basque sous-chef Eusebio Martin.

Three years in the planning, Barrica is the brainchild of Tim Luther, who developed a passion for Spanish wines after spending the last seven years working for Albion Wine Shippers in London.

The bar offering includes over 20 different Sherries, while the rest of the wine list roams freely across 25 Spanish Denominacións de Origen.

There are plenty of interesting options for hispanophiles to explore, from the Villa Anita Viura/Chardonnay blend from Tarragona at a very reasonable £15 a bottle, to the Losada Mencia from Bierzo and, for pudding, Moscatel from the Camillo Castilla in Navarra.

The food offering looks equally tempting, and with dishes starting at just £1, there’s plenty of scope to explore.

Spanish stalwarts such as jamon and manchego are inevitably present, while there are plenty of less familiar options to uncover, such as skate cheeks or home-pickled vegetables.

Commenting on the venture, Luther said: “We wanted to create a genuine tapas bar that would not feel out of place if it were on a busy street in Barcelona.

“We don’t call ourselves a restaurant as the Barrica experience is as much about enjoying a beer at the bar with friends as it is about sampling the tapas dishes with our extensive Sherry and wine list.”

Highlighting the particular spotlight given to Sherry, Luther explained: “There’s no better way to complement the different dishes on offer at Barrica.

"Whether it’s a glass of fino to accompany some almonds and olives, an amontillado with some charcoal-grilled quail or a sweet Pedro Ximénez to enjoy with cheese or dessert, there’s a Sherry for every palate.”

Anyone looking for a further excuse to visit should note Barrica’s £20 festive set menus.

These feature a selection of tapas dishes, each of which offers a distinctively Iberian take on Christmas.

Knight is also happy to prepare bespoke menus on request, from roasted meat dishes to paella or whole baked fish.

With no shortage of serious competition nearby, Barrica needs to prove itself quickly. However, on paper, the prospect of an affordable, authentic, good quality venue for a light lunch or after work drink seems to tick all the boxes London diners are crying out for.

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Gabriel Savage, 24.11.09