Amarone’s fine wine image under threat

Amarone’s upmarket reputation is at risk from increasing volumes of lesser quality wines.

Speaking to the drinks business at the international launch of the Amarone Families in London this week, Sandro Boscaini, president of the newly-formed group said: “Amarone has become a victim of its own success.”

He explained that while the current market for Amarone is around 8 million bottles, by the end of 2010, as much as 15m bottles would be released onto the market.

“Where are these extra 7m bottles to be sold?” he asked. “Because of the success of Amarone production has become very high and I’m afraid we’ve created a monster.”

He said: “Already in Germany and Denmark there is very aggressively priced Amarone in the supermarkets and we are seeing a new sub category of Amarone." 

He added: “Well made Amarone is difficult to find on the shelf for less than £20 but in Germany you can find Amarone for €10.”

To protect the image of this famous wine from Valpolicella 10 of Amarone’s producers have united to form an association called Amarone Families.

London’s Institute of Directors hosted the first Amarone-only tasting outside Italy on Monday this week, and the international launch of the Amarone Families.

Producers within the association will mark their bottles with the new group’s logo, and must comply with certain criteria.

They will also jointly promote Amarone around the world, with the next tasting taking place in the US.

“Our aim is to protect the integrity and quality of Amarone and promote Amarone as a unique and special wine,” added Boscaini.

Although the UK was chosen to launch the association internationally, the US, Canada, and Switzerland are larger markets for the wine.

Facts: Amarone Families

Each member should be:

• a small or medium size winery
• family run
• a winegrower and winemaker
• involved in Amarone production for at least 15 years

Products must:

• be released on the market 30 months after 1 December of the production year (6 months more than required by Amarone della Valpolicella DOC regulations)
• be minimum 15% abv (DOC regulations stipulate 14% abv minimum)
• be at least 30 grams per litre dry extract
• meet strict price and quality requirements

Amarone Families represent 40% of the total turnover of Amarone della Valpolicella DOC and 55% of the region’s high value wines.
The ten members include:

• Allegrini
• Brigaldara
• Masi
• Musella
• Nicolis
• Speri
• Tedeschi
• Tenuta Sant’Antonio
• Tommasi
• Zenato

Patrick Schmitt, 08.10.2009