db Eats: Orrery

Situated above the Conran Shop in London’s West End, rumour has it that Orrery is the best D&D of them all.

It’s certainly good, but there are two obvious drawbacks, firstly pronouncing that name and then resisting the blandishments of the wine list – with its 1949 Cos d’Estournel at only £610.

If you manage to resist that or the ’55 at £557, then the £25 lunch menu represents exceptional value: velouté of green pea soup, gnocchi with truffles and parmesan followed by a masterly mini blackberry soufflé, not to mention an amuse bouche and pre-desert; all superb, can’t be beaten.

Judging by the lunch menu, the main menu is probably good value and excellent quality at £39 for two courses.

This summer saw the launch of a new, improved wine list at the restaurant.

Frédéric Claude, head sommelier at Orrery outlines his changes: "Since I joined Orrery I have simply tried to find a more harmonious balance for the list, with more wines priced under £50."

As a result of his efforts, the 750 bin list now carries 123 wines which fall below this threshold.

Many of these more modestly priced wines are also available by the glass. Within the broad, interesting selection here you can find the Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006 from Margaret River (£11.50/£46), Remolinos Vineyards Malbec 2006 from Mendoza (£7.95/£32), and solid second label Bordeaux in the form of Les Allées de Cantemerle 2004 (£11/£46).

The balance of the new list is intended to reflect Claude’s belief that "It’s important that on every page there should be wines that people can afford and enjoy, whatever their budget – the wine list should be a pleasure to read, not horribly intimidating."

This approach does not mean that the fresh additions here are restricted entirely to the New World.

Indeed, within Burgundy alone Claude highlights Méo-Camuzet, Bret Brothers and Arnaud Ente as three producers he felt merited a spot on this new list.

Whether or not you decide to treat yourself to the Cos ’49, the Orrery list certainly offers enjoyable browsing opportunities if your dining companion falls short of the mark.

Orrery
55 Marylebone High Street
London
W1U 5RB
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7616 8000
www.orreryrestaurant.co.uk

Nights Out on Tuesday, 15.09.09