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db eats: The Mount Inn, Stanton

The Cotswolds is a veritable honey pot of country pubs, all promising rural nirvana and gentrified versions of yokel gastronomy, but not necessarily delivering on either.

Since being taken over last year by Carl and Pip Baston, The Mount Inn at Stanton has become one of the leading contenders in this crowded field, without (yet) becoming swamped by the trendy Cotswold crowd.

As a member of the local Donnington Brewery pub collection, you’ll find BB and the slightly richer SBA as the draught ales here, accompanied by quality ciders, Stowford Press and Addlestones. The wine list is surprisingly strong for a pub, with the house wines and several others available by the glass from £2.10.

An Old World bias nevertheless leaves plenty of variety for all tastes, including a particularly refreshing Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (£15.50 a bottle), top quality Prosecco from Vincenzo Toffoli (£20.50 a bottle), and robust southern Rhone complexity from the 2005 Raspail-Ay (£29.50 a bottle). Hine Cognac and Quintal do Noval Port keep up the quality levels behind the bar.

The food here is a distinct step up from the usual pub grub, without roaming into the dangerous territory of over-priced crocodile steaks. The printed menu offers a tempting selection of light snacks and pub classics, such as fish and chips – in Donnington ale batter of course – and Gloucester Old Spot bangers and mash, both for £9.95.

However, some of the best dishes appear on the daily specials: the steamed mussels are a regular feature here, arriving in a particularly tasty broth, either as a starter (£5.95) or a main (£11).

You might get lucky and time your visit with a recent delivery of fresh halibut or local venison. Some of the prices are higher than the average pub, but then so is the quality and you’re unlikely to have room for pudding, except possibly one of the ice creams produced a few miles down the road.

At any time of day, this is a picturesque spot to enjoy a pint, but the evening sunset with views stretching as far as the Black Mountains should soften even the most jaded character.

In winter, settle by the fire if the dogs will clear you a space and enjoy the disarmingly charming hospitality from Pip, or quiz Carl on the provenance, anatomy and preparation of the various dishes emerging from the kitchen.

As you can imagine, it’s worth reserving a table here if you’re looking for anything more substantial than a pint. The pub lies on the Cotswold Way and is understandably popular with walkers. You might decide to be one of them if you’re going to work up the appetite to do this place justice.

The Mount Inn at Stanton,
Nr Broadway,
Worcs.
WR12 7NE
Tel: +44 (0)1386 584 316

www.themountinn.co.uk

Gabriel Savage, 25.08.09

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