Bordeaux launches ‘wine by the glass’ push to win over young drinkers
Faced with falling exports, changing tastes, and stiff competition from beer, Bordeaux is turning its attention to the glass, not the bottle, in a bid to re-energise local wine sales.
Bordeaux winemakers are ramping up efforts to drive local wine consumption, as the region battles declining exports, a drop in international demand, and a growing preference for beer -particularly among younger French consumers, a recent report from The Times found.
In response, the city has launched a campaign encouraging bars and restaurants to serve a wider variety of wines by the glass. The initiative, Bordeaux se met au verre (“Bordeaux by the glass”), will see around 100 establishments in the city participate. Each venue will receive a €250 promotional kit on the condition that they offer at least three wines by the glass, one organic, and one priced at €5 or less.
“We want to rejuvenate the image of Bordeaux’s wines,” said Pierre Hurmic, the city’s Green mayor, who is spearheading the campaign. “It’s also about making the people of Bordeaux and the four million tourists who come here each year more aware of the variety of our wines, not just reds, but whites, rosés and sparkling crémants. We want to adapt our wines to new patterns of consumption, especially among young people who don’t always want a bottle and may not realise that Bordeaux produces fresh, easy-to-drink wines in tune with today’s tastes.”
The initiative comes at a time when the region’s traditional oaky, tannic reds are falling out of favour, with many consumers opting instead for lighter, fruit-driven wines such as Burgundy’s Pinot Noirs. Meanwhile, overproduction has led to some growers being forced to rip up vines.
Changing consumption habits and pricing challenges
Christophe Chateau of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) noted that “sales of bottles of wine in restaurants have fallen as people are drinking less and more now order glasses, especially couples when one wants red and the other white. You see a lot of Bordeaux wines by the bottle on restaurant wine lists, but not so many by the glass.”
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In addition to driving awareness, the Bordeaux Wine School will provide training to restaurant owners and staff on how to store and serve wine correctly by the glass. Wine-on-tap is also being explored as a way to minimise wastage and preserve quality.
“It’s hard for wine to compete with beer on price because production costs are so much higher for wine, but we think our rosés and whites can appeal to young people, especially women,” Chateau added.
Restaurateurs are being asked to reconsider their pricing strategies, with a focus on making wines by the glass more accessible. According to wine magazine Terre des Vins, restaurants in France typically charge three times the retail price for a bottle, but up to six times for a glass.
Another common consumer complaint is serving size, with France’s standard glass measure of 120ml seen as ungenerous compared with 175ml in the UK.
However, with more people working from home and business lunches in decline, some restaurateurs have voiced concerns about the financial feasibility of cutting prices.
A model for export?
Despite the challenges, Mayor Hurmic believes the project has potential beyond Bordeaux. “This is an exportable initiative,” he said, suggesting the scheme could be extended to British cities following its local rollout.
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