No one-trick pony: why diversity is key to the Loire Valley
A recent Edinburgh masterclass explored the huge diversity of wine offerings from the Loire Valley. From fresh Muscadet to ageworthy Cabernet Franc, db uncovers more.
Running from the Massif Central near Valence to the Atlantic Ocean just beyond Nantes, the Loire is the longest river in France. Along its banks, the Loire sees the diversity of French culture from UNESCO-recognised châteaux to a former capital of France. And, for its last 400km, it also encompasses much of the diversity of the French wine trade.
With a wide range of climates and terroirs, formed as the river surges from an inland position towards the sea, it is bound to present a range of options for winemakers. Add in its wealth of grape varieties, and it amounts to one of the most exciting regions in the country. As attendees at a recent Edinburgh masterclass discovered, there is a wealth of wine to discover from the Loire.
A maritime influence
As a region defined by its river, the Loire Valley extends from sheltered inland sites to those facing almost directly onto the ocean. It is one of just two major French so close to the Atlantic, and probably wears that influence more proudly than the other. While Bordeaux is somewhat sheltered by forests, and its red wines are less evocative of the sea, at the western end of the Loire the influence of the ocean is much plainer in the vineyard and in the glass.
It is there, in the Pays Nantais, that Muscadet has become a signature French wine. Using Melon (also known as Melon de Bourgogne), a white grape variety whose identity is fully entwined with that of the Muscadet appellation. Its natural profile is light in body and alcohol, while high in acidity, and this is supplemented by the cool climate. While the humid climate brings risk, expert vineyard management and well-draining soils ensures that the crisp, light signature style can be reliably produced.
The Edinburgh masterclass showcased two wines to represent the appellation. Both hail from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC, a large subregion containing many of the best sites. Michel Delhommeau Saint Fiacre Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine comes from 30-year-old vines and gneiss heavy soils, made in a ‘Chablisien’ style that demonstrates the potential to dive into nuances of Muscadet terroir. The cuvée can spend as long as three years ageing on its lees, a process that subtly builds the wine’s body and maintains its characteristic freshness. Domaine de la Bretonniere Cuvée Prestige Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, meanwhile, shows a family domaine with experience dating to the 1800s proving their imntimate connection with the landscape, crafting a wine that balances intensity of fruit against racing acidity.
Dry Chenin Blanc taking centre-stage
Although the grape variety thrives in other regions (most notably South Africa), Chenin Blanc’s homeland is the Loire Valley, and there it is still making exciting wines with diversity aplenty. In the central section of the region, where the climate is most delicately poised between maritime and continental influences, producers can explore the multitude of possibilities the famously versatile grape offers.
Made towards the west in Anjou, Château de Plaisance Anjou Blanc Ronceray makes a compelling case for Chewnin Blanc’s versatility. Its vineyards, in fact, come from one of the most renowned terroirs in France: Quarts de Chaume is internationally renowned for its sweet wines. In this case, however, the famous name is abandoned to make instead a benchmark dry wine. Farmed biodynamically, it shows many of the hallmarks of fine Loire Valley Chenin Blanc – complex aromas running from citrus to stone fruits, minerality, plenty of acidity and the potential to age.
Slightly further inland, just across the border into Saumur, Thibaud & Michel Chevré Clos de L’Ecotard Saumur Blanc is made by a father and son team with experience across some of the region’s most iconic producers. Grown on limestone and clay soils, it shows chalky, mineral notes and fruit flavours that range from bright citrus to green pineapple. With a notably traditional approach – the land is worked by horse, for instance – the cuvée demonstrates how Chenin Blanc can still create leading wines in its ancestral home.
…but undeniable versatility
Presenting those two bottles at the masterclass clearly made a firm point: dry Chenin Blanc is capable of diversity and quality in the Loire Valley. Yet the tasting also nodded to myriad other options. Thanks to the grape’s high acidity and breadth of potential aromas, it is well suited to a variety of styles. Combine that with the sheer range of terroirs across the Loire Valley and you will find limitless options for Chenin Blanc.
With its high acidity, Chenin Blanc is a natural fit for sparkling wines. Moreover, its natural flavour profile – particularly the vibrant apple notes when from a cooler climate – offer a fine canvas for the aromas generated by traditional method winemaking. Domaine Vigneau Chevreau Vouvray Pétillant Brut showed the region’s potential at the masterclass, as a fine, dry fizz that serves as a great option for lovers of Champagne and crémant. That it is farmed biodynamically further helps its appeal.
Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume, meanwhile, demonstrated Chenin Blanc’s aptitude for sweet winemaking in the Loire. The reasons are complex, a perfect marriage of site, style and variety. Chenin Blanc is naturally prone to botrytis which, under the right conditions, can dry the grape and concentrate flavours and sugars for a luscious sweet wine. Its acidity is a boon again here, as it helps balance any potentially cloying sweetness. In the Coteaux du Layon, which covers slopes on the right bank of the Loire, that noble rot can develop so that growers can pick grapes perfect for this style. Domaine des Forges’ example showed Sevelle marmalade notes against orchard fruit and vibrant acidity: a showcase for the region’s sweet wines.
A home for globally significant grapes
It would be mad to dissociate Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. Both have a long history in the region and are likely to have originated relatively nearby (suggestions vary, from Basque Country to Bordeaux to the Loire itself). Yet both have a global profile that is certainly larger than Melon and arguably greater than Chenin Blanc.
The masterclass, however, made the case that they are hugely important in the story of diversity in the Loire Valley. Sauvignon Blanc is well known through the Loire wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but in this case the focus was shifted slightly to the west. Touraine still flies under the radar for many consumers, with its Sauvignon Blanc offering an alternative that is both great value and great quality. Domaine du Vaux St Georges Touraine Sauvignon Blanc shows the appeal that straddles both the famed regions and Touraine: flinty minerality, refreshiong acidity and aromas of citrus fruit.
Domaine de Pallus Chinon Les Pensées de Pallus was shown to fly the flag for Cabernet Franc. The grape would be worthy of a Loire Valley masterclass all of its own: it runs the gamut from light, crunchy, chillable bottlings to serious, dense examples for ageing. Here, the old vine Chinon veers slightly towards the latter, with dense flavours of redcurrant and violet, silky tannins and fine acidity. Though its genetic offspring (Cabernet Sauvignon) often hogs the limelight for French red wines, this Loire example shows the benefits of going slightly off that beaten track.
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