Meet The Maker: Sam Harrop MW, Bird In Hand
Douglas Blyde speaks with Sam Harrop MW about his work with family-run Bird In Hand winery in Australia.
The winery’s name references a 19th-century gold mine. How does that heritage influence its brand identity?
Bird in Hand, Nest Egg, and Two in the Bush were once gold mines beneath the Woodside estate. Founders, Andrew and Susie Nugent named their wine ranges in homage. That history underpins a brand which respects its past while looking forward, with sustainability at its core – from preserving some of Australia’s oldest soils to maintaining the Hills’ clean, green reputation.
The Nugent family runs Bird in Hand from the estate. How does this hands-on approach impact its culture?
The Nugents are embedded in every layer. Andrew, executive director, remains deeply involved in winemaking, sales and strategy – an unusually active founder role. Susie lends her design acumen to the estate and the soon-to-open Hobart tasting room. Their children are in training to take on pivotal roles too. Bird in Hand remains a true family outfit, fuelled by passion, craft and continuity.
With cooling influences from the Gulf of St. Vincent and the Mount Lofty Ranges, how do these conditions define the wines?
Perched up to 600m in the Mount Lofty Ranges, Bird in Hand’s vines benefit from warm days, cool nights and maritime breezes which temper the summer heat. Slower ripening encourages natural acidity and moderate alcohol, while low pH adds poise. It’s a set-up which suits today’s palate – fresh, precise, and conducive to low-intervention winemaking.
Bird in Hand champions sustainability and minimal intervention – how do you balance these values with the realities of commercial-scale production?
Bird in Hand walks a considered line. Organic methods (without certification) offer flexibility, while low-intervention winemaking upholds both quality and ecological standards. The aim is simple: minimal input, maximum site expression – and the scale to make it matter.
The winery has expanded into Tasmania. What’s the strategy behind this move?
Tasmania is among the most thrilling wine regions today – its cool climate and expressive soils are ideal for both sparkling and still styles. Bird in Hand’s 2024 West Tamar Pinot Noir and Riesling offer an elegance which leans more European than Australian. The goal? Expand the still and sparkling range, access new markets, and show a more progressive edge to sommeliers and drinkers alike.
Your background includes co-founding Peninsula Vinicultores in Spain. How has that shaped your work at Bird in Hand?
Peninsula instilled values I carry through – authenticity, sustainability, and the primacy of site. Both ventures reject fads in favour of identity. Bird in Hand is already strong in this regard, and with the pace of change – especially in Tasmania – it’s an exciting time to push that even further.
Bird in Hand Foundation supports young creatives. Why invest in the arts, and which projects have been most impactful?
The Nugents see wine as part of a wider creative culture. Their private art collection reflects that, and the foundation supports young and First Nations artists. It was one of the first Australian wineries to launch a Reconciliation Action Plan. Highlights include backing the APY Lands art collective, the Donor’s Circle, and the ambitious Art of Burning Man at Chatsworth House.
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Your portfolio spans Tribute Series, Nest Egg, Bird in Hand, and Two in the Bush. How do they differ, and where can UK buyers find them?
Tribute Series: The apex of Bird in Hand’s range – powerful, elegant, terroir-led wines. Allocation only. Found at Scott’s Mayfair, the Carlyle in New York, or direct from Woodside.
Nest Egg: Small-batch, numbered bottles from top parcels. Available at select Mayfair addresses and birdinhandwine.co.uk.
Bird in Hand: Signature range, showcasing vintage character. The Sparkling Rosé appears in Waitrose and Sainsbury’s; others online.
Two in the Bush: Lively wines with standout quality and value for money. Distributed in the UK via frontierfinewines.co.uk.
Will there be a follow-up to your book, Authentic Wine, or has the industry moved on?
Not for now. The next project will take a different route. But Authentic Wine still finds an audience – its message holds as authenticity gains traction across all price points. Since 2012, crises like Covid and the cost of living have only made context and ideology more relevant.
Finally, who would you most want to share a bottle of Bird in Hand with from history?
Paul Kelly. An Adelaide-born poet, songwriter, and fierce advocate for First Nations people – the ideal storyteller for a bottle and a long evening.
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