67 Pall Mall debuts Chinese wine collection in Hong Kong

As private members’ club 67 Pall Mall launches its ‘China Uncorked’ series in Hong Kong, Richard Hemming MW tells db which grape should be China’s flagship and why now is an exciting time for Chinese wine.

According to Richard Hemming MW, 67 Pall Mall’s head of wine for Asia, there are two reasons to be excited by Chinese wine right now. “Firstly, the Chinese producers who have worked hardest in international markets are getting more and more recognition, which they fully deserve,” he says. After years of hard graft to establish brands worldwide, Hemming believes the efforts of a few key brands “are paying off for the whole category”.

Secondly, less established producers are showing the full range of what China can do with its vines. “There is an emerging group of smaller producers that show the full diversity of Chinese wine, using a wide range of varieties and production techniques that offer huge potential for new discoveries,” Hemming says.

Private members’ club 67 Pall Mall has now decided to give these wines a platform. The club has launched its ‘China Uncorked’ series in Hong Kong, featuring 67 wines produced in China available by-the-glass and in bottle.

The series is the largest of its kind in the city state, which welcomed 67 Pall Mall memberships for the first time in early 2024.

On the express path to expansion, in January last year the members’ club launched a new category of membership in cities where it has no permanent physical presence, and Hong Kong became the first to debut the new offering.

Its new membership model, called En Primeur, will be offered in cities with vibrant wine communities but no physical 67 site, giving local members access to all of 67 Pall Mall’s clubs worldwide, plus a series of workshops, dinners, masterclasses and WSET education and sommelier concierge service with the club’s venue partners.

Hemming argues Hong Kong is the perfect location for the Chinese wine series to debut. “Hong Kong is the most developed and most competitive wine market in Asia: it’s a challenging market, but one with excellent visibility,” he tells db. “Wine lovers there are both highly discerning and highly curious. Plus of course, it is closely connected to the Chinese Mainland, which helps from a practical and logistical point of view.”

But the popularity of Chinese wine extends beyond its closest markets. The members’ club is keen to capitalise on its rising profile worldwide. Its Singapore club currently has 46 Chinese wines on its list.

“We run events with Chinese producers and organisations, such as walk-around tastings of the top wines from the Wynns Signature Chinese Wine Awards, which we host in our London and Singapore Clubs,” Hemming says.

67 Pall Mall has launched ‘China Uncorked’ at its bar residency in Hong Kong, 67 on Hollywood.

Wines range from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir expressions to Bordeaux blends and Northern Rhône-style Syrah.

Chinese winemakers are using international grape varieties to create wines which rival Old World expressions.

However, one lesser-known variety is proving to be China’s biggest asset: Marselan.

Asked whether Marselan could become China’s flagship grape variety, Hemming is confident. “Yes,” he says. “I’ve tasted a lot of Marselan recently, and it offers a real point of difference to the better-known varieties.”

In Marselan China can carve out its own distinct niche. “China has the opportunity to define the archetype of Marselan, offering something familiar yet distinctive to wine lovers. It will take a long time to establish Chinese Marselan as one of the world’s signature styles, but from the wines I’ve tasted, that process has already started,” Hemming says.

‘China Uncorked’ also includes wines from lesser-known varieties including Petit Manseng, Cabernet Gernischt and Niagara, underscoring the diversity driving Chinese winemaking forward.

The list of 67 Chinese wines debuting in Hong Kong is grouped into sections. These are:

• A Toast to Chinese Bubbles, showcasing sparkling wines that can rival Champagne.
• China Beyond Chardonnay, featuring Chinese dry whites made from grape varieties including Petit Manseng, Riesling and Viognier. The menu will also feature a unique Blanc de Noir Marselan wine.
• The Côte de Jade, a tribute to Burgundian winemaking, this category highlights Chinese Chardonnays that exemplify precision and finesse.
• Pinot of the East, highlights the rare and exceptional expressions of Chinese Pinot Noir, a testament to the skill and dedication of winemakers who have successfully embraced the challenge of growing this variety on challenging terroirs.
• ‘Bordeaux’ Above the Clouds, wines made from Bordeaux varieties that showcase the unique expressions of elevated terroirs.
• ‘Bordeaux’ Unblended, featuring single-variety red wines from grapes traditionally used in Bordeaux blends, offering a distinct perspective on Chinese viticulture.
• Chinese Red Champions, a celebration of Marselan and other red grape varieties thriving in China.
• Vino with a Visa pays homage to wines made by foreign winemakers, showcasing their interpretations of Chinese terroirs through their own distinctive styles.

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