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Wine List Confidential: Dovetale

23 December 2024 By Douglas Blyde

Douglas Blyde heads to 1 Hotel Mayfair, indulging in an “often cheese-enriched experience” paired with wines as chosen by “radiant force in the sommelier world” Tara Ozols.

“In a stylish, warm-toned space on the ground floor of 1 Hotel Mayfair, Tom Sellers and his executive chef, Tom Anglesea set about updating the European classics,” wrote Good Food Guide. “This being Mayfair,” it continued, “the menu is priced for people who have no need to look at prices.”

Meanwhile, City AM painted Sellers as a culinary maverick with “fire in his belly” and a “bad boy reputation.” The Standard, however, only had eyes for “the knickerbocker glory trolley whipping up sundaes tableside,” because who needs drama when there’s dessert on wheels? And in a twist only the internet could deliver, Local Guide, ‘D K’, cut through the Mayfair gloss on TripAdvisor, grumbling: “No one asked why we weren’t happy with the service.”

Design

Rising from the corner of Piccadilly and Berkeley Square, cocooned within Dover Yard’s verdant embrace, Dovetale exudes a sophisticated warmth which mirrors the eco-conscious philosophy of its host, 1 Hotel Mayfair. Natural materials weave throughout the bustling space, where muted woody tones and fine terrazzo floors create a chic, yet grounding atmosphere. Banquettes as comfortable as the seats of a classic Jaguar invite long lunchers to linger evermore, while over a thousand immaculately arranged plants create an air of wildness carefully calibrated not to misbehave. The lighting, soft and amber-hued, occasionally misfires, literally knocking the faces of servers mid-stride. But for diners, it performs magic, rendering them effortlessly Instagram-ready. Tables near the fire, or the glass-fronted wine cellar and seafood station are particularly prized where diners may watch their indulgence materialise. The soundtrack is as considered as the menu, including Camille Yarbrough’s Take Yo’ Praise, and The Cure’s Lullaby.

Drinks

Opening with the pledge, “Each bottle represents our unwavering dedication to environmental stewardship and unparalleled quality,” the wine list at Dovetale is under the mastery of Tara Ozols, a radiant force in the sommelier world, and ambassador for Veuve Clicquot’s pinnacle, La Grande Dame. Raised in the modest surrounds of Manchester, Connecticut, Ozols’ initiation into wine was delightfully unpretentious – sneaking sips on her stepmother’s back deck rather than sipping in the salons of grand châteaux. Nearly a decade ago, she crossed the Atlantic from New York, refining her palate under the mentorship of Michael Deschamps, whose mantra, “taste, taste, taste,” she has embraced with almost evangelical fervour. Her journey, from scrubbing dishes in her parents’ Florida pub to earning the distinction of being the inaugural recipient of the Michelin Sommelier Award, reflects a career fuelled by grit, passion, and an insatiable curiosity. Known for her Cubitts eyewear, a fondness for Stevie Nicks, and whisky-laced repartee, Ozols brings both gravitas and charm to every pour.

Served in US-designed Glasvin stems by former hedge fund investor, David Kong – introduced to London by Ozols herself – or Mark Thomas glasses whose form bears a resemblance to Kryton’s head from Red Dwarf, the wine list spans a dazzling array. By the glass, highlights include the Grüner-led 2021 Kamptal Kollektiv White Blend from Austria (£12/175ml), a Coravin pour of the poised 2014 Shafer Hillside Napa Cabernet (£110/125ml), and the Loire’s quirkily named “Tacsum” (Muscat spelt backwards, £20/175ml). For celebratory fizz, the house sparkling is Billecart-Salmon Le Réserve (£23/125ml), while those looking for smaller indulgences will find solace in half bottles, such as the timeless López de Heredia 2009 (£80).

Champagnes by the bottle span from the saline precision of Laherte Frères Ultradition, Chavot NV (£98) to the ethereal, rare 1997 Salon Le Mesnil (£2,600). Noteworthy, too, is Timothee Stroebel’s Heraclite Chardonnay from Villers-Allerand, a boutique offering from a mere 3.5-hectare estate (£220 for the 2017). Closer to home, English sparkling wine is championed with pride, including the sustainably-certified Hundred Hills Blanc de Blancs 2018 from Oxfordshire (£146). For those who like their bubbles with adventure, the Slovakian pét-nat, Pivnica Čajkov Vulcanica #6 NV, described by its maker as brimming with “volcanic character,” offers a unique, budget-friendly option (£57).

In the still wine realm, offerings range from the Orange Viile Timisului by Romanian powerhouse Cramele Recas (£37) to the peerless Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 2014 (£14,000). Between these poles lies the mature and honeyed Beaucastel Blanc 2011 (£214), the distinctively packaged 2020 Meursault by François Mikulski (£300), and Pierre Overnoy’s venerable 1998 Vieux Savagnin Ouille (£800/500ml). Collections from esteemed producers include Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon to 2013 (£285), Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay to the same year (£400), and older vintages such as Mas de Daumas Gassac from 1985 (£470), Tignanello from 1998 (£700), Château Palmer from 1988 (£850), Latour from 1992 (£1,500), and back to the contemporary, the more fruitful Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2017 (£1,200). Sweet wines conclude, led by Château d’Yquem offerings which extend to 1982 (£1,600).

Ozols is supported by the charming, cool, Nasif Kanyike, formerly of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Guests should also explore Dover Yard Bar’s “Seed to Sips” menu, including a Kentish Orchard Mai Tai, overseen by bar director Giulio Guarini.

Dishes

Formerly of Boxwood Café, The Red Lion in Pewsey, and Laughing Heart in the UK, as well as New York’s Per Se and Sydney’s Rockpool and Spice Temple, head chef Tom Anglesea boasts a CV as impressive as it is far-flung. Present during our visit, his handshake was reassuringly firm – the grip of a man equally adept at emulsifying butter sauces and navigating the delicate politics of the pass. From the open kitchen, he presided with quiet authority beneath a sign urging his brigade to “Focus” – a succinct mantra he shares with Tom Sellers of sister restaurant, Story.

Crafted by Tara Ozols’ kindred spirit, Carmelo Peña Santana, Listán Negro Ikewen 2022 featured pomace-smeared labels, heralding a wine as high in altitude as it is low in vanity. Its purity was poured alongside a trio of dishes designed to charm and impress: glossy duck buns so plump and lacquered they might have rolled out of a pastry chef’s dream; an off-menu chicken and mushroom consommé so soulful you could drown your sorrows in it; and tuna tartare precariously balanced on sticky fried rice chips, dusted with seaweed as if a mermaid had sneezed nearby. Then came bread – its fluffy core, squeezed to a bonbon shape, further improved by the promise of salted Glastonbury butter.

The English wagyu Carpaccio followed, an homage to the original Harry’s Bar, its slices, thin as whispers, adorned with popping mustard seeds, accompanied with crunchy, layered, Old Winchester and beef-fat chips. The dish found its perfect foil in Christophe Pacalet’s Beaujolais Nouveau, poured in honour of the day – a juicy, fragrant red which spoke of sunshine and youth.

Then came the sort of posh fondue you might imagine at a chalet for oligarchs: soft potato gnocchi buried under molten aged Parmesan custard, studded with black truffle. It was paired with the Soutbosch Chenin Blanc, a textured, chamomile-scented wine from a coastal vineyard which no longer exists, lending a ghostly air of lost grandeur to proceedings.

The main course was roast Cornish halibut on the bone, with Vin Jaune butter and an insistent touch of vanilla, accompanied by sea purslane. The halibut was imperious, the vanilla divisive, and the pairing – Mayacamas Chardonnay 2017 via Coravin, described by Ozols as “honey-kissed”. Sides included creamed potatoes which whispered of Robuchon’s sainted legacy and pommes allumettes, served in a tin engineered to stay piping hot, ready to be decadently dipped into their mash companion.

The grand finale was the mighty £100 soufflé which straddled dessert and cheese course. Enriched with white truffle, Pedro Ximénez caramel brown butter, and lavish Tunworth cheese ice cream added at table by head maître d’, Matthew O’Connor, it was paired with both Jean-François Ganevat’s Vin Jaune and Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2015. The Vin Jaune brought a saline counterpoint, while the Champagne – apricot-scented and unashamedly celebratory – made its case for a joyful ending.

Last word

This is a restaurant which knows exactly how good it is and wears its confidence like a well-tailored suit. Like its towering soufflé, the often cheese-enriched experience rises to the occasion with effortless grace. At its heart is Tara Ozols, the grande dame of the wine list, who, concussion notwithstanding on our visit, performed her role with dazzling pizzazz, her poise unshaken. It’s as much her show as it is Tom Anglesea’s. Together, they craft a dining experience which is indulgent, assured, and unforgettable.