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Unfiltered: James Clark
The owner of Edinburgh wine bar Sotto speaks with Douglas Blyde about his inspirations, some of the standout Italian wines from its 200 bins, and why he avoids trends.
What has been a highlight bottle from your year of birth, and how did it perform?
A 1992 Terre de Barolo Barolo. I’d just returned from my time away in Australia, and my good friend and colleague, Davide Traverso, the manager of Sotto, welcomed me home by opening it. The wine was absolutely singing – rich, resonant, and full of life – but the moment itself was just as unforgettable. Sometimes, the circumstances surrounding the bottle can raise what’s inside it.
From where does your interest in wine stem?
It’s a family affair. My dad, Peter, was a devoted wine lover, and as they say, what’s in the cat comes out in the kittens. Wine was always part of the conversation, the table, the celebrations – it was inescapable, in the best possible way. My sister, Katie, followed suit. She’s better educated, has a sharper palate, and gives great advice (when I’m not too stubborn to take it).
Who was your mentor?
Silvio Praino, the best sommelier I’ve worked with. He remembered every customer’s preferences, budget, and made wine completely unpretentious. Having him at Sotto on opening night was a proud moment.
Your time as general manager and sommelier at Divino Enoteca must have been formative; what lessons did you take from Edinburgh’s wine scene into opening your own venue?
My time with the Vittoria Group was invaluable. Tony Crolla, the owner and father of two of my closest friends, Alberto and Leandro, is a master of the restaurant world. Working across all their sites taught me the importance of cherishing every customer and putting in the hard graft – values I’ve carried forward ever since.
Sotto’s cellar boasts more than 200 Italian wines – how do you curate the list, and what’s your process for uncovering hidden gems in Italy’s diverse wine landscape?
I started by crafting my dream list while in Australia, showcasing the standout producers I’d discovered at Divino. Then, I worked backwards to make it achievable. The key is collaboration – working closely with suppliers and staying proactive. With over 2,000 indigenous grape varieties in Italy, there’s always a hidden gem waiting to be unearthed.
Poppelvej wines are among the few non-Italian bottles on Sotto’s list. Was this a sentimental choice or a stylistic counterpoint?
It’s sentimental – it’s my brother-in-law’s winery in in Whites Valley, McLaren Vale – but I wouldn’t pour them if they weren’t exceptional. They also tie back to Italy, given the region has a strong Italian diaspora and works with Italian varietals. Their Arneis, for instance, is absolutely delicious, yet completely distinct from anything in the Langhe.
What wine style or grape could you happily live without?
Fortified wines. I know it’s trendy to rave about Sherry, but it’s just not my thing. For me, it’s strictly for the kitchen, not the glass.
What are your finest pours via Coravin?
Right now, a 2016 Barbaresco from Angelo Gaja – the wine which sparked my love affair with wine – and Planeta’s stunning Sicilian Chardonnay, Didacus.
What is a particularly successful food-and-wine pairing at Sotto?
Franciacorta with our bar snacks in the Enoteca. Anything crafted in the Champagne method pairs beautifully with fried delights like our olives ascolana or polenta – crisp, bubbly perfection meets golden, crunchy indulgence.
Where did you meet head chef Francesco Ascrizzi, and what does he like to drink?
We met at Divino Enoteca, where I instantly fell for his cooking. Having him in the kitchen feels like family. As for drinks? He’s an athlete, so it’s sparkling water over beer every time!
What is the finest table in the house?
Table 19, our private dining table, handcrafted by two of my best mates from school – it fits the space perfectly. I also love the communal bar table upstairs; it’s lively, convivial, and perfect for couples and small groups to bond over a glass of wine.
Describe the soundtrack at Sotto.
Eclectic and unapologetically unique. Where else would you find Dean Martin crooning alongside J Hus? It’s a bold mix, but somehow, it just works.
How does Sotto stay relevant while staying true to its roots?
By avoiding trends. The best restaurants are timeless. Italy’s rich, diverse culinary history gives us endless inspiration, and we showcase it with rotating menus and wine lists, focusing on traditional dishes which feel fresh and less familiar in the UK.
Tell us something surprising about yourself.
I love cheap New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Who takes your beautiful publicity photos?
Tina Leahy, a wonderfully talented photographer and friend [instagram.com/thetincamera].
If you could have a superpower, what would it be?
Teleportation – I’d love to pop over to Australia on my day off to catch up with friends and family.
Who from history would you like to have a long lunch with, and what would you drink?
My dad. He passed five years ago, and I’d love to show him the restaurant – he’d be proud, and it’s exactly his kind of place. We’d start with a glass of Prosecco (despite his saying he “wouldn’t bathe in the stuff”) before opening a bottle of his favourite, Château Montrose.
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