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Marqués de Cáceres matches terroir to winemaking
Alongside its fine vineyards in Cenicero, Marqués de Cáceres owes its success to continually bold winemaking.
With vineyards situated in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, particularly around the notable village of Cenicero, no-one would doubt that Marqués de Cáceres can take pride in its vineyards. The vines, some of them more than 70 years old and situated at high altitudes, produce enviable harvests dominated by Tempranillo and Viura.
Yet the winery is always keen to make the case that expertise, technology and a dedicated team are equally to thank for its award-winning wines. Indeed, that tradition dates back to its founding, more than five decades ago.
Founder Enrique Forner cut his teeth in the French wine industry, after his family fled during the Spanish Civil War. On his return to Spain, he brought back some of the French reverence for the expert winemaker, enlisting famed Bordeaux consultant and oenologist Émile Peynaud.
Their work together set the norms for the winery: precise grape selection, cold maceration, sensitive use of French oak and long ageing. The first wines were released in 1975, choosing to emphasise aromatic brightness and Tempranillo’s profile over barrel influence. Later white and rosé wines similarly prioritised vibrant primary aromas.
As the company grew – it is now present in more than 120 markets – it kept true to these principles. Considered winemaking was still a central part of the high-quality process. Indeed, another Bordeaux legend, Michel Rolland, advised the winery in the 1990s. At the end of that decade, Marqués de Cáceres broke new ground with Gaudium, a wine in which old vines in Cenicero, the winery’s high standards and extended ageing combine.
A modern touch
Nowadays, led by Cristina Forner, the winery’s standards are kept just as high. Grapes are harvested to a carefully devised calendar, balancing structural complexity with aromatic ripeness. Most wines undergo a long maceration to fully extract the nuanced character of the grapes. They are then aged as needed, with a wealth of options in stainless steel, new oak and older barrels.
Moreover, the team’s innovative spirit is moving beyond the search for quality wine. A sustainability drive has seen it move to renewable energy and dramatically reduce its water usage. It has been certified as a Sustainable Winery for Climate Protection – further evidence that Marqués de Cáceres has the expertise to lead in Rioja for decades to come.
Patrick Schmitt MW awarded two Marqués de Cáceres wines Gold medals at The Rioja Masters 2024.
Marqués de Cáceres Gaudium 2020
- Region: Rioja
- Country: Spain
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14%
- Approx. retail price: £55
- Medal: Gold
A wine that never fails to deliver pleasure, Gaudium is just such a reliable blockbuster of a red, where everything is generous, and therefore in balance. That means you can expect a concentrated core of black fruit, from juicy plum to ripe cherry, giving a fleshy sweetness, which is then framed by barrique-sourced flavours of toast, chocolate and coconut, before the wine closes with a dry tannic grip that leaves one salivating and reaching for another hit of this wonderfully powerful, yet drinkable, red.
Marqués de Cáceres la Halconera Maturana 2021
- Region: Rioja
- Country: Spain
- Grape variety: 100% Maturana
- ABV: 14.5%
- Approx. retail price: £30
- Medal: Gold
Representing an exciting addition to the range of wines from Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres is this specialist Rioja from the extremely rare Maturana grape. The wine is notable for its deep purple appearance, as well as its intense flavours of cherries, blackcurrants and cracked pepper. Mingling with the fleshy, ripe fruit and spice are notes of toast and dark chocolate, while the finish is fresh and dry, with plenty of firm tannins to make the mouth water. Serve it with barbecued lamb seasoned with rosemary, chilli and garlic.
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