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Bodegas Sonsierra targets export markets for its boutique Rioja
After a string of investments, Bodegas Sonsierra is promoting its small plot and Viñedos Singulares Rioja wines to key markets.
Founded in 1962, when 240 grape growers joined forces in the Rioja Alta, Bodegas Sonsierra has considerable expertise and a reputation in its homeland maintained over generations. However, the winery is increasingly looking beyond Spain. Through a combination of personnel changes, winery upgrades and new regulations from Rioja DOCa, Bodegas Sonsierra is developing its international ambitions.
Its most direct work in raising its export profile has been in making strategic hires. Luis del Aguila joined as CEO in 2023. He brought a background of sales in the US, as well as 12 years of experience as export manager at La Rioja Alta SA. Pilar Lorenzo later joined Bodegas Sonsierra, aiding it in hitting new markets as export manager.
Moreover, Bodegas Sonsierra is collaborating with agencies and consultancies in key target markets. Those on-the-ground partners are leveraging their country-specific knowledge to spread the word.
Although Bodegas Sonsierra has decades of experience, its wines are also benefitting from a recent revamp. In 2017, it opened a cutting-edge winery, connected by a tunnel to the historic property.
The new facilities combine small fermentation vessels – sometimes just 500 litres – and innovative technology. This includes a pump-free remontage system that recycles carbon dioxide from fermentation. With such precise, boutique winemaking, the winery has become the centre for small-batch production: the Viñedos de Sonsierra range.
These bottlings include small batches made from high elevation and old vine plots around the town of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The range also features Perfume de Sonsierra, an old vine label in a bottle created by the late fashion designer David Delfin.
Of particular note in the collection are the four Viñedos Singulares. Since 2017, Rioja DOCa has allowed these single-vineyard bottlings. With access to nine such designated plots, Bodegas Sonsierra has the most of any producer in the Rioja Alta area.
Both the vineyards and wines must meet stringent criteria. The vines must be at least 35 years old from a vineyard selected by the Consejo Regulador for its quality. The wines, meanwhile, must use hand-harvested grapes, be made in a single winery and pass a tasting panel. The new winery is therefore ideal for meeting such exacting standards – as well as for capitalising on interest in the new premium category.
The 2024 vintage
Among the exciting new developments, however, Bodegas Sonsierra is also showing the benefits of hard-earned expertise. Certainly, the recent 2024 vintage matched historical patterns rather than creating a new paradigm.
With a cool summer that pushed the maturation cycle back by around two weeks, 2024 returned to historical averages after a run of hot vintages. The experience of winemaker Rafael Usoz, who has worked at the winery since the 1990s, was therefore immensely useful.
“Although the quantity harvested in this vintage will be low,” he explains, “the quality is undoubtedly exceptional.”
“Autumn came early and the threat of rain meant that we had to bring in the grapes very quickly to avoid losing any of the quality. We harvest entirely by hand, and in vintages with low quantities of grapes such as this one, we have to cover much further distances each day to harvest the same quantity of precious grapes.”
Usoz was aided in his endeavour by the quality of Bodegas Sonsierra’s vineyards. South-facing – and therefore earlier ripening – plots such as Rincón de los Galos allow pickers to still start relatively early.
Meanwhile, the winds through the vineyards, which sit high in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria, reduce humidity. This, in turn, reduces the threat of fungal diseases, even when there is threatening rainfall.
As the wines develop, there is every indication that they will build on the producer’s existing success. Indeed, Usoz has a very simple evaluation of the 2024 harvest: “Simply marvellous!”
For the moment, however, drinkers can enjoy the current roster of Bodegas Sonsierra releases across global markets. Siobhan Turner MW tasted two of the bottles at The Rioja Masters 2024, and provides her notes below:
El Rincón de los Galos Viñedo Singular 2021
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14.5%
- Approximate retail price: £60
- Medal: Master
Ruby in colour, the nose has deep, dark blackberry and blueberry fruit with a touch of plum and a complex mix of vanilla, hazelnut and allspice. The palate is ripe, the tannins are full and yielding, and there is incredible dark fruit concentration, with an elegant, long finish. A wine to impress.
Viñedo de Altura
- Grape variety: 100% Tempranillo
- ABV: 14%
- Approximate retail price: £23
- Medal: Gold
Very juicy, fruit forward nose with notes of fresh cherries, blueberries, rose petals and blackcurrant with a hint of cream. The palate is creamy and juicy, with fleshy tannins and lashings of dark fruit. Full-bodied, enjoyable and comforting, a wine for autumn roasts and casseroles, retaining just that hint of summer’s erstwhile pleasure.
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