Wine List Confidential: Ristorante Dei Cappuccini

Douglas Blyde begins his journey along Italy’s Amalfi Coast with a visit to Ristorante Dei Cappuccini, tasting the “effortlessly digestible dishes” of The Fat Duck alumnus Claudio Lanuto.

As Michelin noted: “The monks and the nuns had it pretty good. Sure, there’s the chastity and poverty to get used to, but if the Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi is any indication, it very well might have been worth taking holy orders just for the views.” Condé Nast Traveler was also smitten, praising chef, Claudio Lanuto’s “playfully reimagined Mediterranean dishes.”

TripAdvisor’s Adam W. from Surbiton took his vows a bit more literally, meanwhile, finding the lofty spot, replete with its bookable “love table”, as good for romance as it was for repentance: “If you’re thinking of proposing here, absolutely recommend it. Perfection.”

Design

Though it renounced its monastic ways nearly 160 years ago – briefly operating as a nautical academy before embracing its role as a hotel during the heyday of the European Grand Tour – this historic site has preserved its ecclesiastical vernacular. Carved into the hillside 80 metres above the Gulf of Salerno, with sacred roots dating back to 1212, it retains part of the original Arab-Norman cloister alongside the Chapel of San Francesco, adorned with Baroque masterpieces.

Guests can either embrace the simplicity of the original monks’ quarters or indulge in the extravagant Suite dell’Ermita, which surveys its own lemon grove, or the Capuchin Suite, complete with no fewer than three balconies to satisfy the most discerning sun-worshipper. An outdoor gym encourages guests to repent their indulgences with a scenic sweat, while the chapel’s original confessional awaits those needing a deeper release.

Drinks

Formerly of the Michelin-starred Il Flauto di Pan, Ravello, Diego Mansi, the AIS-accredited head sommelier, frames his extensive wine list with a flourish worthy of Brillat-Savarin: “Without wine, the feast is but a shadow, lacking the warmth and light of the sun.” Born in Salerno in 1984, Mansi embodies the essence of southern Italian hospitality, curating a selection undulating between luxury and regional flair. His favourite wine? Montevetrano Colli di Salerno – a homage to his roots.

By the glass, Mansi’s list begins with the rare Pepella grape in the local Sammarco Costa d’Amalfi Terre Saracene (€15), characterised by its unpredictable berry sizes, ranging to I Favati Taurasi Terzotratto Etichetta Bianca Riserva 2013 Aglianico (€47). Between, there’s the higher altitude Metodo Classico Alta Costa Brut by San Francesco (€19), foregrounding Biancatenera’s floral character.

Bottles, which Mansi dubs “my babies”, are priced from €60 for Ponterotto Falanghina Perzechè, with the crescendo delivered by the “monolithic, foursquare” Petrus 2002 according to Parker subject to a mark-up of around two and a half times retail (€8,790). Alongside Carizze Prosecco from Bortolomiol, and the customary line-up of big-hitter champagnes, Franciacorta fans may choose from seven producers, including Bellavista’s flagship, Vittorio Moretti Extra Brut 2016 at €289.

Still options include Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2018 (€197), a restaurant vintage (2011) of Lynch-Bages (€379), Coche-Dury’s Bourgogne Aligoté 2021 at a punchy, though not atypical €579, and Gaja’s Sori’ Tildin 2017 Barbaresco at €1,450, with a jeroboam of the standard fit version from 2018 at €2,940. Collections include Sassicaia to 2007, as well as Tignanello, and Ornellaia, including the lesser-spotted Toscana Bianco 2019 at €619. Sweet options include Château d’Yquem’s reasonably priced 2000 (€719), one of seldom few older vintages, hinting that sun-kissed patrons find themselves irresistibly drawn to the seductive charm of fresher, younger offerings at Convento.

Dishes

Claudio Lanuto, who refined his craft at Il Pagliaccio, I Quattro Passi, and The Fat Duck, presides over the kitchen with a quiet brilliance, having begun his culinary journey at age 14 in Livorno. As twilight settled, a tasting of Aglianico unfolded on the panoramic terrace – the wild cherry and liquorice notes of Joaquin Aglianico I Viaggiatori 2017, decanted by candlelight, followed by Montevetrano 2019, which collages the ancient, volcanic soil loving, grape alongside the ever fashionable Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Dinner commenced with the high-altitude Alta Costa Brut, served alongside 18-inch-long pretzel-like grissini said to honour monks’ quills, and also deftly baked, scroll-like fried crispbread. Lanuto’s delicate broccoli croquette amuse led into a Pollock-worthy presentation of lard-wrapped squid, softly filled with potato mousse and vibrant pak choi.

Then arrived Lanuto’s signature cannelloni, said to have been first crafted on-site 100 years ago, its creation marked by the toll of a bell for the townsfolk of Amalfi below. The pasta cylinder of minced beef and concentrated tomato was paired with 2020 Irpinia Bellaria, a more humble Aglianico than those shown before, though with sufficient fresh fruit character to tame the acidity of the dish.

Fortunately, the Taurasi Riserva Terzotratto Etichetta Bianca 2009 I Favatti, served via Coravin in a generous Lehmann glass, set the evening back on course. The rich, though rested, clearly premium Aglianico, was applied to a splendidly rare, beef fillet accompanied by a celebration of peppers, including in the shape of an unlikely, though effective, sausage, as slim shreds, in various purées, and within a canister topped with seeds which on first sight were a ringer for caviar.

Meanwhile, the other main of rolled sole was scented with sea urchins, so prevalent on this coast that they literally wash up on the volcanic sand, lightly bergamot and almond scented layered crisped potatoes, and bitter baby courgettes. A slight scent of char, not unwelcome, characterised the fish. A green salad, as devout in its simplicity as a monk’s meal, was dressed tableside by the ever-graceful waiter, Enrico, proving to be one of the most delightful highlights of the meal.

Finally, the Falanghina-led Passion Colli di Salerno Passito, evocative of goji berry tea in flavour, was applied to a “lemon bomb” celebrating the lemon groves of the property, its detonations arising from a generous core of popping candy. Served with fluffy lemon cake inspired by Lanutos’s grandmother’s recipe, the ensuing “limoncello experience” involved a pottery chalice of whole lemons and a bottle of the supple liqueur, enlivened by a cloud of dry ice.

Last word

Ever the enthusiast, Mansi approached each pour with reverence, meticulously selecting the ideal service temperature and glassware, favouring a showcase of his beloved Aglianico over rigid pairings. Despite its elevated price, this luxurious haven manages to keep a serene, unhurried atmosphere, with tucked-away rocking chairs and hammocks inviting guests to unwind. In the kitchen, Lanuto crafts effortlessly digestible dishes which highlight his deft touch with vegetables. His dedication to produce is apparent not only in his cooking, but also in the terraced edible gardens visible to guests.

Best for

• Wine tasting in the original cloister
• Amalfi coast wines
• Vegetable cookery

Ristorante Dei Cappuccini – Il Convento di Amalfi, Via Annunziatella, 46, 84011 Amalfi, Italy; +39 089 873 6711; fb.conventodiamalfi@anantara-hotels.com; deicappuccini-restaurant.com

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