What are Hungary’s latest up-and-coming wine regions?

Famed sweet winemaking region Tokaj may have put Hungarian wine on the map, and for good reason, but there is plenty more to discover from the country, as Zsirai Winery owner Petra Zsirai tells db Asia.

Tokaj, globally recognised for its acclaimed Aszú wines and Furmint-based whites, is by far Hungary’s best-known wine region. Its unique climate, with misty autumn mornings and sunny afternoons, allows for the development of noble rot, and its unique microclimate and the special volcanic terroir are crucial for producing world-class sweet wines.

But the country has much more to offer, from other local grape varieties to a range of dry to sweet styles.

“It is amazing how diverse the climates and soils can be in a small country like Hungary,” says Petra Zsirai. “Each region brings its own climate and geography, shaping the diverse portfolio of Hungarian wines.”

Major regions

Hungary’s wine landscape is divided into six major regions, each with its own unique terroir and climate, which deeply influence the style and character of the wines produced.

The Balaton wine region, surrounding Central Europe’s largest lake, produces wines influenced by the moderating effect of the water, yielding vibrant, often minerally whites.

The Danube region — including the Kunság wine district, Hungary’s largest — focuses on mass production, primarily of white wines.

Upper Hungary includes wine districts like Eger and Mátra, where cooler climates and volcanic soils contribute to the production of crisp, refreshing whites and the famous Egri Bikavér, or ‘Bull’s Blood’.

The Northern Pannon region is recognised for its fresh, mineral-driven whites and bold reds. The Pannon region, in the southern part of the country, specialises in bold, full-bodied red wines.

The country also has a long history of making wine. “Over the centuries, winemaking became a core part of Hungarian culture,” says Zsirai. “We have many legends and myths that became part of our country’s wine identity, a lot of traditions and celebrations that we keep even today.”

Hungarian wine dates from the First Century BC, but suffered in the 20th century as focus was placed on mass production over quality. During this period, the true treasures of Hungarian terroir were hidden in private cellars. A major shift occurred after the regime changed and after Hungary joined the EU, which led to new regulations promoting quality control and origin protection.

“Today, Hungary’s diverse and unique wines are regaining their place on the global stage,” Zsirai says.

Zsirai is filled with hope for the future of the country’s wine industry. “These days local grape varieties are coming to the fore; there are many varieties in Hungary, including well-known international ones. However, the indigenous grapes are more interesting to me,” she says.

Up-and-coming white grapes include Furmint made in a range of styles, as well as Hárslevelű and Olaszrizling.

“Aromatic Hungarian varieties – that are usually unpronounceable by foreigners – are on the rise as well. In red wines, Kékfrankos and Kadarka are the most important indigenous varieties, with Kékfrankos being a primary component of the iconic Bikavér blend.”

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