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Unfiltered: Riccardo del Noce
The globetrotting sommelier leading Clarette’s wine programme talks to Douglas Blyde about milestone birthday bottles, the venue’s direct connection to Château Margaux, and his unexpected past as a professional athlete.
What has been a highlight bottle from your year of birth, and how did it perform?
A standout from my birth year was the elegant, earthy 1983 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, enjoyed on my 30th birthday, followed by the beautifully integrated 1983 Château La Lagune, which marked my 40th with equal finesse.
From where does your interest in wine stem?
Despite no strong family connection, wine has always been a personal passion. My fascination took root in my youth – I even flirted with the idea of studying viticulture at university. But the call to explore the world proved stronger, so I took my education on the road, learning from vineyards around the globe.
How did you come to join Clarette?
After living in Australia and New Zealand for over 10 years, I decided to return to Europe. While job hunting in London, a connection introduced me to Clarette – and the rest is history.
Where did you work before?
I was the Restaurant General Manager and Head Sommelier at Esther, a Mediterranean gem within Auckland’s QT Hotel. Before that, I spent eight years in Sydney, where I met my wife, and we welcomed our two children.
What makes Clarette so special to work in?
There’s something magical about working in a historic seventeenth-century Tudor house with ties to Château Margaux, in the heart of lively Marylebone. The vintage décor, warm clientele, and sense of community make it feel like home – and many guests have become close friends.
How deep is the relationship between Clarette and Château Margaux?
Clarette was founded in 2017 by Alexandra Petit-Mentzelopoulos, granddaughter of André Mentzelopoulos who bought Château Margaux in 1977. The family connection runs deep: Alexandra is now President of the Supervisory Board, while her brother, Alexis, serves as CEO of the Château.
Do you just list Bordeaux?
Far from it! While Bordeaux has its place, we proudly feature wines from across the globe. From the Azores’ Adega do Vulcão to Tuscany’s rare Orpicchio, and even regions like Pic Saint Loup and Jasnières. We aim for variety, rotating our by-the-glass offerings to keep things fresh.
What has been an interesting recent team visit to a vineyard?
In August, we visited Weyborne Estate in West Sussex – an amazing day. Weyborne now features on our by-the-glass list.
What style or grape should diners be drinking more of?
Diners should be braver and trust the sommelier’s suggestions. Stepping out of your comfort zone can lead to delightful surprises. Regions worth exploring include: Pessac-Léognan, Douro (for wine and not just Port), Bolgheri whites, and fine wines from New Zealand. Grapes to watch, meanwhile, include: Viognier and lesser-known single varietals Petit Verdot and Ciliegiolo. Explore, explore, explore!
And what wine style or grape could you happily live without?
100% or single varietal Merlot just doesn’t do it for me!
How is Clarette investing in the future?
I’m continuously sourcing special bottles, from back vintages to hidden gems, and focusing on en primeur purchases. We’re also expanding our Coravin by-the-glass list, with exciting wine flights on the horizon. The current Sassicaia flight (‘21, ‘15, ‘10, and ‘05) is just a taste of what’s to come.
What else do you offer via Coravin?
Naturally, the Château Margaux wines are the stars, especially the 2004 Grand Vin. Past highlights have included a 2009 Chablis Les Clos Droin and a 2019 Garnacha from Finca Valpiedra. We’re currently pouring over six wines, including the 2018 Cornas, La Sabarotte from Domaine Courbis.
Who is Clarette’s head chef, and what do they enjoy drinking?
Benjamin Bourbon, from Nuits-Saint-Georges, is our head chef. His heart belongs to Burgundy.
What is the finest table in the house?
It’s subjective, but my favourites are: terrace table 57, a corner spot with a great view; wine bar table five, offering a full view of the venue; and upstairs table 37, a romantic spot by the window.
What other spaces are available?
Our Private Dining Room on the second floor is perfect for events, hosting up to 25 for a standing cocktail reception or 18 for a seated meal. We’ve hosted weddings, wine tastings, and birthdays, but we’re open to almost any occasion.
Who has been your mentor in the world of wine?
I’ve been fortunate to learn from several greats, but Riccardo Molfetta (now head sommelier at Casa di Ma’ in Corsica) and Niels Sluiman (formerly head sommelier at Jonah’s in Sydney) have been particularly influential.
Tell us something surprising about yourself?
I’ve worked and lived in eight countries across four continents and once played tennis and football professionally – before injuries changed my course.
If you could have a superpower, what would it be?
I’d love to duplicate myself – to be in multiple places at once and never miss a moment.
Who, from history, would you embark on a long lunch with?
Napoleon III, over a bottle of old Sassicaia. I’d love to show him that Bordeaux isn’t the only region producing exceptional wines.
Clarette – 44 Blandford Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 7HS; 020 3019 7750; clarettelondon.com
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